Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat

Chicken soup with avgolemono Every culture around the world has a restorative chicken soup. For Greeks it is kotosoupa avgolemono. I cannot think of a more comforting dish than this one. The creaminess here is due to the rice, which should be rich in starch, and the egg and lemon sauce, avgolemono, which also gives it a nice velvety texture. It is a soup enjoyed in Greece throughout winter, and my grandmother Rena, who was a master of this soup, always made it on New Year’s Day. It is traditionally served as a thick broth with the rice in it, with the left- over boiled chicken often used for a chicken pie. I like to also add carrot and courgette (zucchini) for flavour and texture, but you can play around with different vegetables. I always buy a high-quality chicken, preferably organic or free-range: they have less fat and are full of flavour. SERVES 4–6 1 x 1.8–2kg (4–4½lb) chicken, cut into 6 pieces 1 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, peeled and halved 1 small leek, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled 1 large celery stick, trimmed and roughly chopped 2 bay leaves 6 black peppercorns 3–4 sprigs of thyme 1 small tomato 80ml (3fl oz) dry white wine 1.5 litres (56fl oz) hot water 2 large carrots, diced 120g (4oz) medium-grain white rice, such as glacé (glutinous) 2 small courgettes (zucchini), diced 2 eggs, at room temperature Finely grated zest of 1 small lemon and juice of 2 Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tbsp chopped spring onions (scallions), including the green part (optional), to serve Wash the chicken well, pat dry and set aside. (Keep the giblets for another time.) Place a large, heavy pan over a medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and gently sauté the onion, leek, garlic, celery, bay leaves, peppercorns and thyme for about 8 minutes, stirring, until softened. Add the chicken, turning the pieces until slightly browned all over. Add the tomato (whole) and pour in the wine. Season with salt and pour in the water. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 50–60 minutes until the chicken is thoroughly cooked. Transfer the chicken to a platter and let it cool. Remove the skin and bones, then shred or cut the meat into small pieces. Strain the broth and pour it back into the pot. Return it to the stovetop, turn the heat up to medium-high and adjust the salt if necessary. Add the carrots and bring to the boil. When it starts boiling, reduce the heat to medium and add the rice. Let it boil for 10 minutes, then finally add the courgettes. Boil for another 10 minutes until the veggies and rice are cooked. Remove the pan from the heat. Ladle about 200ml (7fl oz) of broth through a sieve into a jug (pitcher) and set aside. Separate the eggs into two bowls. Beat the yolks with the lemon zest and juice. Whisk the egg whites into a light meringue (not too stiff). Gradually whisk the egg yolks into the whites until incorporated (don’t over-whisk). Carefully and gradually add small amounts of the strained hot soup to the egg and lemon sauce, whisking constantly. The sauce should look nice and frothy. Once the soup is all incorporated, pour the mixture into the pot and stir gently. Serve the soup with shredded chicken and spring onions (scallions), if desired, and a grind of black pepper. Yiouvarlakia, hearty meatball soup This is one of my favourite Greek comfort dishes. It’s popular all over the country and is most commonly prepared with egg and lemon sauce, like this one, or – often during summer – in a tomato-based broth. It was a dish prepared by Greeks settled in Asia Minor who popularized it in Greece in the early 1920s, along with several other recipes that greatly shaped what is called the Urban Athenian Cuisine. What makes the Greek version different to others is the use of egg and lemon sauce, and the herbs or spices. In parts of northern Greece and particularly in Naoussa (a famous wine region), this dish is also known as koukoulia (which means cocoons). Yiouvarlakia is usually prepared with plain minced (ground) beef or a combination of half beef, half pork. The sauce here works both as a flavour enhancer and as a thickener for the broth, giving the soup a lovely creamy consistency. Good bread is essential when serving this dish – trust me. SERVES 4–6

cherry tomatoes, halved 270g (10oz) tomato passata (sieved tomatoes) 50ml (2fl oz) warm water 70g (2½oz) Kalamata olives, pitted 60g (2oz) feta, crumbled Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Extra virgin olive oil, to serve Peel and clean/devein the prawns (shrimp), keeping their heads and tails in place. Season with a little salt and pepper and set aside. Place a large, ovenproof pan over a medium heat, heat half the olive oil and sauté the prawns for 1–2 minutes just until they change colour. Transfer to a plate. In the same pan, heat the remaining oil and sauté the onion until soft and glossy. Add the garlic, bay leaves and thyme, stir for another minute, then pour in the ouzo. Give it a couple of minutes to infuse, then add the halved tomatoes, stir and pour in the passata and warm water. Season with a little salt (keep in mind that you’ll be adding feta and olives which are salty) and plenty of pepper, lower the heat to medium and let it cook for 5–8 minutes until the sauce thickens. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 210°C/190°C fan/410°F/gas mark 6½. Return the prawns to the pan, add the olives and sprinkle the crumbled feta on top. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for another 15 minutes, or until the feta starts melting. Remove from the oven, drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil and serve immediately. 1 Without doubt the best known, most widespread and versatile of Greek cheeses, a PDO product and the star of myriad Greek dishes. Made primarily with sheep’s milk and sometimes an addition of up to 30 per cent goat’s milk, feta ranges from the very soft, creamy and buttery, to hard, spicy and salty; the more it ages, the harder and spicier it gets. 2 A dry, anise-flavoured liquor which is served as an aperitif or accompanies food. It is made with a grape or grain distillate in traditional copper cauldrons, flavoured with a variety of herbs, seeds and spices. Uniquely Greek (it can only be made in Greece and Cyprus), it is commonly served diluted in iced water. Butternut squash fritters with olives and herbs Fritters made from seasonal vegetables or pulses are prepared in most parts of Greece, using courgettes (zucchini), aubergines (eggplant), potatoes, leeks or mixed leafy greens like spinach and sorrel – even nettles. The islands are particularly big on these kinds of fritters, or pseftokeftedes as they call them, meaning ‘fake meatballs’. They are primarily a result of the ‘poor kitchen’ and of the long fasting periods of the past, when methods were invented to replace meat or other animal products. The fritters are typically fried in order to acquire a crispy outer layer, and although some home cooks now prefer to bake them, I do insist on the traditional fried version – they are delightfully crispy on the outside, moist and fresh on the inside, and they don’t feel heavy or oily at all. The secret for success here is to let the grated butternut drain well and to use plenty of chopped fresh herbs and onions. The fritters are typically served with yogurt or a yogurt-based dip such as tzatziki. Here, I pair it with a simple and versatile minty yogurt dip, which you can use in many other recipes. SERVES 4 350g (12oz) butternut squash, grated (using the big holes of a box grater) 1 tsp salt 1 medium white onion, finely chopped 2 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped 75g (2½oz) pitted green olives, roughly chopped 4 tbsp chopped mint 2 tbsp chopped parsley 2 tbsp chopped dill 2 eggs, lightly beaten 100g (3½oz) feta, crumbled 50g (2oz) plain (all-purpose) flour 1 tsp baking powder Oil, for frying (I use a light olive oil or sunflower oil)

chicken, though tougher, which means it needs to be gently slow cooked. You can use a chicken instead, in which case the cooking time will be slightly shorter. The cheese traditionally used here is called sfela 1 , an ancient, PDO cheese of the Messinia and Mani regions, also known as ‘the cheese of fire’. Sfela is not easy to find outside of Greece, but it can be replaced by feta or a combination of feta and a hard cheese like a spicy, aged kefalotyri or pecorino. The green olives add a delightful tangy punch, which makes my tastebuds happy! The cockerel is usually served over thick spaghetti, bucatini-style pasta or hylopites, the traditional Greek egg and milk noodles that either look similar to tagliatelle or can be small and square-shaped – popular with children. It is the perfect dish to prepare for a Sunday family feast. SERVES 6 1 cockerel (or free-range chicken), about 2.5kg (5½lb), cut into portions 100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil, plus a splash for the pasta 4 large white onions, roughly chopped 3–4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 bay leaves 4–5 allspice berries 1 cinnamon stick ¼ tsp ground cloves 1–2 sprigs of rosemary (or 1 tbsp dried rosemary) 4 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp tomato purée (paste) 500g (1lb 2oz) tomatoes, puréed in a blender (or use canned) 150ml (5fl oz) hot water 250g (9oz) feta, crumbled 200g (7oz) pitted green olives 1–2 tbsp chopped parsley 500g (1lb 2oz) thick spaghetti (I like to use number 6) or bucatini Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Wash and pat dry the cockerel. Season with a little salt and pepper and let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, place a large, wide pot over a medium-high heat. Pour in half the olive oil. Once hot, add the onions, stir and bring the heat down to low. Season with salt and black pepper to taste, cover and gently cook for about 20 minutes until soft and glossy. Check the onions occasionally while they are cooking and gently stir to prevent them from sticking. Once ready, remove the pot from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, remove the onions to a plate, leaving the remaining olive oil in the pot. Place the pot back over a medium-high heat. Pour in enough of the remaining olive oil to just cover the bottom of the pot and, in batches, brown the cockerel pieces for about 3–4 minutes on each side, adding more oil when necessary. Transfer the browned cockerel to a plate. Bring the heat down to medium-low, add the remaining olive oil and gently sauté together the garlic, bay leaves, allspice, cinnamon, cloves and rosemary. Add the vinegar, stir, mix in the tomato purée (paste) and pour in the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and place the cockerel pieces back in the pot. When the sauce is gently simmering, pour in the hot water. Cover and gently simmer for about 1½ hours until the meat is tender and falling off the bone, checking occasionally to make sure it has enough liquid to cook without burning at the bottom, and adding a little extra water if needed. Using a slotted spoon, remove the cockerel portions from the sauce and place on a platter. Return the sauce to a medium heat and add the cooked onions. Gently stir and simmer, uncovered, for another 15 minutes. Add the crumbled feta and olives, season with salt and pepper to taste and let simmer for another 10 minutes until the sauce thickens. Mix in the chopped parsley and place the cockerel pieces back in the sauce. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in boiling salted water, according to the packet instructions. Drain and add a splash of olive oil. Serve the cockerel over the cooked pasta, with freshly ground black pepper, and enjoy! 1 A hard, salty cheese with PDO status, made with sheep’s and goat’s milk, resembling pecorino and used in a similar way, particularly grated. OIL Watermelon summer salad with purslane, capers and feta The combination of watermelon and feta is an old-school Greek classic that has made a grand comeback. Watermelon works so well with white cheeses and it is a wonderful addition in refreshing summer salads, successfully substituting tomatoes. Ancient Greek doctors used them for hydration, as a diuretic, and to treat sunburn and sunstroke. Purslane is a weed that grows like crazy during summer – even in random pots on my balcony in downtown Athens. It’s packed with vitamins and we use it a lot in salads – even in a regular Greek salad – and other recipes such as stews. The caper plant is another precious weed widely used in the Greek kitchen. During late spring it starts to grow everywhere, even out of walls and pavements in the centre of Athens. The Acropolis hill is covered in capers throughout summer and the islands are full of large wild caper bushes that climb down steep hills and hang off rocks; those growing near the sea are considered the best. Capers are very nutritious, packed with vitamins, minerals and strong antioxidants, and the ancient Greeks believed in the plant’s magical as well as medicinal powers. The actual caper is a bud that blooms into a stunning white-pinkish flower with a violet stamen, although the leaves can also be preserved and used in recipes. Later on in the summer, the plant produces a little, oblong berry which in Greece we call ‘caper cucumbers’. These are also preserved in a similar way as the buds, and they are simply amazing. On certain islands, like Chios, pickled caper berries are stuffed with garlic cloves and served as a lovely meze alongside tsipouro or ouzo. Instead of vinegar, I use agourida, also known as verjus. It has a fresher, milder flavour compared to vinegar and it’s less tangy than lemon – ideal in salads, syrups and cocktails. SERVES 4–6 1 medium red onion, halved and sliced 450g (1lb) peeled watermelon, deseeded and diced 150g (5oz) teardrop or cherry tomatoes, halved 2 Lebanese cucumbers with skin, sliced into rounds A bunch of purslane, thick stems discarded, separated into small clusters with leaves 1–2 sprigs of oregano or 1 tsp dried 2 tbsp capers 6–8 Kalamata olives 1 tbsp verjus or red wine vinegar 130g (4½oz) feta, crumbled 100ml (3½fl oz) early harvest olive oil Flaky sea salt To soften the sliced onion and make it less astringent, soak in cold water for 10–15 minutes, then drain and pat dry. Place the watermelon, tomatoes, cucumbers, purslane and onion in a large bowl. Strip the oregano leaves from the stem, if using fresh, and add to the bowl. Add the capers and olives, sprinkle with a little flaky sea salt, and pour in the verjus or vinegar. Gently toss. Transfer to a salad bowl or platter. Sprinkle with the feta and drizzle with the olive oil. TIP To deseed a watermelon without ruining its shape, use a toothpick. Ladenia, baked flatbread with tomato, onions and capers This recipe originates from Kimolos, a small Cycladic island that sits next to Milos. Legend has it that the island was named after its first inhabitant, who was married to Taurus’ daughter, Side. The island has its own popular dishes, but the most famous of all is this pie. Resembling a relatively thick-crusted pizza, this recipe presents ladenia in its most basic form, which I adore. It can be ‘dressed up’ once baked, with some crumbled or flaked cheese (such as feta, aged Greek graviera 1 , pecorino or Parmesan). For special occasions, or when I wish to pair it with a wine or beer, I like to add thin slices of a cured meat like louza 2 , sliced prosciutto, or a spicy chorizo. You will need a large, round and slightly deep baking tin/pan (I use one that is 30–35cm/12–14 inches in diameter). SERVES 4

mint, spring onions (scallions) and a little salt. Spoon the yogurt over the top of the pie, creating a thin, even layer. Create another layer with the diced tomato mix on top. Slice the pie like a pizza and serve it drizzled with a few drops of olive oil and sprinkled with a little smoked paprika. Beef dolmades with avgolemono sauce I believe that everyone has certain dishes that, one way or another, are inextricably linked with memories of certain people. In my case, beef dolmades in luscious avgolemono sauce is something I connect to my grandmother, Rena, who influenced my love of this dish, and I think of her every single time I make or eat it. Her husband, my grandfather George, a grand lemon lover, really became an expert in avgolemono sauce. I have vivid memories of him standing over a bowl with the frothy egg sauce, beating with a whisk, while my grandmother gently poured in warm broth from the pot. Dolmades are prepared all over Greece with different kinds of leaves or fillings. During winter, cabbage is commonly used, and stuffed cabbage rolls with pork is one of the traditional dishes prepared in Greece on Christmas day. This custom is rooted in Byzantine practices and Greek Orthodox religion, and the cabbage leaves wrapped around the filling stand for the swaddling clothes that baby Jesus was wrapped in. Serve with fresh bread. SERVES 6–8 70–80 vine leaves, fresh or from a jar 500g (1lb 2oz) minced (ground) beef (or half pork, half beef) 1 medium onion, chopped 3 spring onions (scallions), including the green part, chopped 2 tbsp chopped parsley (reserve the stems) 2 tbsp chopped mint (reserve the stems) 2 tbsp chopped dill (reserve the stems) 160ml (5½fl oz) olive oil 90g (3¼oz) short-grain white rice 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp lemon juice Hot vegetable stock or water Freshly ground black pepper

chicken, though tougher, which means it needs to be gently slow cooked. You can use a chicken instead, in which case the cooking time will be slightly shorter. The cheese traditionally used here is called sfela 1 , an ancient, PDO cheese of the Messinia and Mani regions, also known as ‘the cheese of fire’. Sfela is not easy to find outside of Greece, but it can be replaced by feta or a combination of feta and a hard cheese like a spicy, aged kefalotyri or pecorino. The green olives add a delightful tangy punch, which makes my tastebuds happy! The cockerel is usually served over thick spaghetti, bucatini-style pasta or hylopites, the traditional Greek egg and milk noodles that either look similar to tagliatelle or can be small and square-shaped – popular with children. It is the perfect dish to prepare for a Sunday family feast. SERVES 6 1 cockerel (or free-range chicken), about 2.5kg (5½lb), cut into portions 100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil, plus a splash for the pasta 4 large white onions, roughly chopped 3–4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 bay leaves 4–5 allspice berries 1 cinnamon stick ¼ tsp ground cloves 1–2 sprigs of rosemary (or 1 tbsp dried rosemary) 4 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp tomato purée (paste) 500g (1lb 2oz) tomatoes, puréed in a blender (or use canned) 150ml (5fl oz) hot water 250g (9oz) feta, crumbled 200g (7oz) pitted green olives 1–2 tbsp chopped parsley 500g (1lb 2oz) thick spaghetti (I like to use number 6) or bucatini Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Wash and pat dry the cockerel. Season with a little salt and pepper and let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, place a large, wide pot over a medium-high heat. Pour in half the olive oil. Once hot, add the onions, stir and bring the heat down to low. Season with salt and black pepper to taste, cover and gently cook for about 20 minutes until soft and glossy. Check the onions occasionally while they are cooking and gently stir to prevent them from sticking. Once ready, remove the pot from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, remove the onions to a plate, leaving the remaining olive oil in the pot. Place the pot back over a medium-high heat. Pour in enough of the remaining olive oil to just cover the bottom of the pot and, in batches, brown the cockerel pieces for about 3–4 minutes on each side, adding more oil when necessary. Transfer the browned cockerel to a plate. Bring the heat down to medium-low, add the remaining olive oil and gently sauté together the garlic, bay leaves, allspice, cinnamon, cloves and rosemary. Add the vinegar, stir, mix in the tomato purée (paste) and pour in the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and place the cockerel pieces back in the pot. When the sauce is gently simmering, pour in the hot water. Cover and gently simmer for about 1½ hours until the meat is tender and falling off the bone, checking occasionally to make sure it has enough liquid to cook without burning at the bottom, and adding a little extra water if needed. Using a slotted spoon, remove the cockerel portions from the sauce and place on a platter. Return the sauce to a medium heat and add the cooked onions. Gently stir and simmer, uncovered, for another 15 minutes. Add the crumbled feta and olives, season with salt and pepper to taste and let simmer for another 10 minutes until the sauce thickens. Mix in the chopped parsley and place the cockerel pieces back in the sauce. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in boiling salted water, according to the packet instructions. Drain and add a splash of olive oil. Serve the cockerel over the cooked pasta, with freshly ground black pepper, and enjoy! 1 A hard, salty cheese with PDO status, made with sheep’s and goat’s milk, resembling pecorino and used in a similar way, particularly grated. OIL Watermelon summer salad with purslane, capers and feta The combination of watermelon and feta is an old-school Greek classic that has made a grand comeback. Watermelon works so well with white cheeses and it is a wonderful addition in refreshing summer salads, successfully substituting tomatoes. Ancient Greek doctors used them for hydration, as a diuretic, and to treat sunburn and sunstroke. Purslane is a weed that grows like crazy during summer – even in random pots on my balcony in downtown Athens. It’s packed with vitamins and we use it a lot in salads – even in a regular Greek salad – and other recipes such as stews. The caper plant is another precious weed widely used in the Greek kitchen. During late spring it starts to grow everywhere, even out of walls and pavements in the centre of Athens. The Acropolis hill is covered in capers throughout summer and the islands are full of large wild caper bushes that climb down steep hills and hang off rocks; those growing near the sea are considered the best. Capers are very nutritious, packed with vitamins, minerals and strong antioxidants, and the ancient Greeks believed in the plant’s magical as well as medicinal powers. The actual caper is a bud that blooms into a stunning white-pinkish flower with a violet stamen, although the leaves can also be preserved and used in recipes. Later on in the summer, the plant produces a little, oblong berry which in Greece we call ‘caper cucumbers’. These are also preserved in a similar way as the buds, and they are simply amazing. On certain islands, like Chios, pickled caper berries are stuffed with garlic cloves and served as a lovely meze alongside tsipouro or ouzo. Instead of vinegar, I use agourida, also known as verjus. It has a fresher, milder flavour compared to vinegar and it’s less tangy than lemon – ideal in salads, syrups and cocktails. SERVES 4–6 1 medium red onion, halved and sliced 450g (1lb) peeled watermelon, deseeded and diced 150g (5oz) teardrop or cherry tomatoes, halved 2 Lebanese cucumbers with skin, sliced into rounds A bunch of purslane, thick stems discarded, separated into small clusters with leaves 1–2 sprigs of oregano or 1 tsp dried 2 tbsp capers 6–8 Kalamata olives 1 tbsp verjus or red wine vinegar 130g (4½oz) feta, crumbled 100ml (3½fl oz) early harvest olive oil Flaky sea salt To soften the sliced onion and make it less astringent, soak in cold water for 10–15 minutes, then drain and pat dry. Place the watermelon, tomatoes, cucumbers, purslane and onion in a large bowl. Strip the oregano leaves from the stem, if using fresh, and add to the bowl. Add the capers and olives, sprinkle with a little flaky sea salt, and pour in the verjus or vinegar. Gently toss. Transfer to a salad bowl or platter. Sprinkle with the feta and drizzle with the olive oil. TIP To deseed a watermelon without ruining its shape, use a toothpick. Ladenia, baked flatbread with tomato, onions and capers This recipe originates from Kimolos, a small Cycladic island that sits next to Milos. Legend has it that the island was named after its first inhabitant, who was married to Taurus’ daughter, Side. The island has its own popular dishes, but the most famous of all is this pie. Resembling a relatively thick-crusted pizza, this recipe presents ladenia in its most basic form, which I adore. It can be ‘dressed up’ once baked, with some crumbled or flaked cheese (such as feta, aged Greek graviera 1 , pecorino or Parmesan). For special occasions, or when I wish to pair it with a wine or beer, I like to add thin slices of a cured meat like louza 2 , sliced prosciutto, or a spicy chorizo. You will need a large, round and slightly deep baking tin/pan (I use one that is 30–35cm/12–14 inches in diameter). SERVES 4

chocolate or an almond or hazelnut ice cream. SERVES 9 450g (1lb) thin filo (phyllo) pastry (for homemade) 200ml (7fl oz) sunflower oil, plus extra for greasing 4 large eggs, at room temperature 150g (5oz) caster (superfine) sugar Finely grated zest of 3 large oranges 1 tsp vanilla extract ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg 280g (10oz) Greek-style (strained) yogurt (thick and creamy) 2 tsp baking powder Ground cinnamon, to finish FOR THE SYRUP 200g (7oz) caster (superfine) sugar Juice of ½ lemon 1 cinnamon stick 6 cloves ½ orange with skin, cut into smaller pieces 4 tbsp honey (ideally orange blossom) 250ml (9fl oz) fresh orange juice