Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat

Chicken soup with avgolemono Every culture around the world has a restorative chicken soup. For Greeks it is kotosoupa avgolemono. I cannot think of a more comforting dish than this one. The creaminess here is due to the rice, which should be rich in starch, and the egg and lemon sauce, avgolemono, which also gives it a nice velvety texture. It is a soup enjoyed in Greece throughout winter, and my grandmother Rena, who was a master of this soup, always made it on New Year’s Day. It is traditionally served as a thick broth with the rice in it, with the left- over boiled chicken often used for a chicken pie. I like to also add carrot and courgette (zucchini) for flavour and texture, but you can play around with different vegetables. I always buy a high-quality chicken, preferably organic or free-range: they have less fat and are full of flavour. SERVES 4–6 1 x 1.8–2kg (4–4½lb) chicken, cut into 6 pieces 1 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, peeled and halved 1 small leek, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled 1 large celery stick, trimmed and roughly chopped 2 bay leaves 6 black peppercorns 3–4 sprigs of thyme 1 small tomato 80ml (3fl oz) dry white wine 1.5 litres (56fl oz) hot water 2 large carrots, diced 120g (4oz) medium-grain white rice, such as glacé (glutinous) 2 small courgettes (zucchini), diced 2 eggs, at room temperature Finely grated zest of 1 small lemon and juice of 2 Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tbsp chopped spring onions (scallions), including the green part (optional), to serve Wash the chicken well, pat dry and set aside. (Keep the giblets for another time.) Place a large, heavy pan over a medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and gently sauté the onion, leek, garlic, celery, bay leaves, peppercorns and thyme for about 8 minutes, stirring, until softened. Add the chicken, turning the pieces until slightly browned all over. Add the tomato (whole) and pour in the wine. Season with salt and pour in the water. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 50–60 minutes until the chicken is thoroughly cooked. Transfer the chicken to a platter and let it cool. Remove the skin and bones, then shred or cut the meat into small pieces. Strain the broth and pour it back into the pot. Return it to the stovetop, turn the heat up to medium-high and adjust the salt if necessary. Add the carrots and bring to the boil. When it starts boiling, reduce the heat to medium and add the rice. Let it boil for 10 minutes, then finally add the courgettes. Boil for another 10 minutes until the veggies and rice are cooked. Remove the pan from the heat. Ladle about 200ml (7fl oz) of broth through a sieve into a jug (pitcher) and set aside. Separate the eggs into two bowls. Beat the yolks with the lemon zest and juice. Whisk the egg whites into a light meringue (not too stiff). Gradually whisk the egg yolks into the whites until incorporated (don’t over-whisk). Carefully and gradually add small amounts of the strained hot soup to the egg and lemon sauce, whisking constantly. The sauce should look nice and frothy. Once the soup is all incorporated, pour the mixture into the pot and stir gently. Serve the soup with shredded chicken and spring onions (scallions), if desired, and a grind of black pepper. Yiouvarlakia, hearty meatball soup This is one of my favourite Greek comfort dishes. It’s popular all over the country and is most commonly prepared with egg and lemon sauce, like this one, or – often during summer – in a tomato-based broth. It was a dish prepared by Greeks settled in Asia Minor who popularized it in Greece in the early 1920s, along with several other recipes that greatly shaped what is called the Urban Athenian Cuisine. What makes the Greek version different to others is the use of egg and lemon sauce, and the herbs or spices. In parts of northern Greece and particularly in Naoussa (a famous wine region), this dish is also known as koukoulia (which means cocoons). Yiouvarlakia is usually prepared with plain minced (ground) beef or a combination of half beef, half pork. The sauce here works both as a flavour enhancer and as a thickener for the broth, giving the soup a lovely creamy consistency. Good bread is essential when serving this dish – trust me. SERVES 4–6

carrots, sliced into rounds 2cm (¾ inch) thick 1 tomato, peeled and halved 4–5 sprigs of celery fronds 3 bay leaves Pinch of saffron threads 1 small chilli pepper (optional) 170ml (6fl oz) extra virgin olive oil Juice of 1–1½ lemons, plus extra to serve Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Tie all the small fish and other seafood with the peppercorns in a cheesecloth and set aside in the refrigerator until ready to use. Place the larger fish, if using, in a large pot and add enough water to just cover the fish. Add a pinch of salt and boil for about 20 minutes (depending on size) until done, using a slotted spoon to discard any froth that forms on the surface. Remove the fish from the pot and set aside to slightly cool before you remove the meat from the bones or shells. Strain the fish broth through a fine sieve, in case there are any small bones, and reserve. Cut a cross halfway down into the onions and place them in the pot along with the rest of the vegetables, bay leaves, saffron and chilli, if using. Place the tied cheesecloth bundle on top. If you poached larger fish, add enough water to top up the poaching broth to 2 litres (70fl oz). If you didn’t, then add 2 litres water. Place over a medium-high heat and bring to the boil, uncovered. (This is a rule when boiling fish, otherwise the smell will be overly fishy.) Simmer gently for about 25 minutes, then remove the cheesecloth bundle, place it in a sieve on top of the pot and press it down to extract the juices. Add the olive oil and lemon juice to the soup, adjust the seasoning and gently simmer over a low heat for another 5–7 minutes until it thickens. Strain the broth from the vegetables. You can either pulse the vegetables in a food processor and return them to the soup for a thicker result, or serve them alongside the fish to add to your soup once you are ready to serve. Serve warm with extra lemon and black pepper to taste. Salt cod brandada from Santorini Salt cod, also known as bacalao, or in Greek bakaliaros, is traditionally prepared with salt-cured Atlantic cod, but nowadays you can find salted fillets of similar fish, like haddock and blue whiting. Its curing process first began around the late 8 th or early 9 th century, when the Vikings had the right boats to travel further and needed to have some kind of preservable food on board. Around the early 11 th century, cod was introduced to the Basques, who then in turn introduced it to other seamen from Britain and southern Europe. Sailors then adopted the habit of eating cod on board and popularized it in their countries, as it was easy to preserve, very affordable, and simple and versatile to use. In Greece, salt cod evolved into a staple ingredient, and is included in our National Independence Day dish, celebrated on 25 March. Around the country fried salt cod is served with skordalia, an olive-oil-based garlic dip. Brandada originally comes from brandade, a traditional dish from southern France. The classic French take involves salt cod puréed with milk and garlic, and usually potato, served on sliced bread. The take on the Cycladic Islands is quite different. The cod is cut into portions and is first fried, then the garlicky mashed potatoes are mixed in a simple tomato sauce. The thick sauce is poured over the fried fish, then baked in the oven. SERVES 4–6 500g (1lb 2oz) potatoes (ideal for mashing), peeled and cut into chunks 2 bay leaves 4 garlic cloves, halved 50ml (2fl oz) red wine vinegar 120ml (4fl oz) olive oil 130g (4½oz) plain (all-purpose) flour ½ tsp sweet paprika 750g (1lb 10½oz) salt cod fillet, desalted and cut into portions 250ml (9fl oz) light olive or sunflower oil, for frying 100g (3½oz) tomato purée (paste) (preferably double concentrate) 1½ tsp dried thymbra or thyme Pinch of sugar Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper TO SERVE 1–2 tbsp capers (rinsed if salt-packed) or chopped parsley Drizzle of early harvest or extra virgin olive oil Fill a medium pot with water, add the potatoes, one of the bay leaves, the garlic and a pinch of salt, and boil for about 20 minutes until the potatoes are soft. Drain, reserving some cooking water (about 3 tablespoons), discard the bay leaf and place the potatoes and garlic in a bowl. Mash them well using a potato masher, adding a little of the reserved cooking water if too dry to mash. When nice and smooth, mix in the vinegar, then gradually add the olive oil while working it with the potato masher. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside. Place the flour, a pinch of salt, ½ teaspoon of black pepper and the paprika on a large plate or tray and mix. Dredge the cod fillets, one at a time, in the flour mix, making sure they are coated on all sides, then gently shake off any excess flour. Place a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Pour in the light oil for frying, and give it a minute to heat up. Fry the fish, in batches of 2–3 pieces, for 6–7 minutes on each side until golden and crisp. Remove and drain on kitchen paper while you prepare the sauce. Preheat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/425°F/gas mark 7. Place a saucepan over medium-low heat. Before the pan heats up, add the tomato purée (paste) and gradually start pouring in 230ml (7¾fl oz) water while stirring with a whisk until all of it is incorporated. Add the remaining bay leaf and the thymbra or thyme, the sugar, and a pinch each of salt and pepper (take care with the salt), and bring to the boil. Lower the heat, remove the bay leaf, and start mixing in the mashed potato, 1 tablespoon at a time. When all of the potato is incorporated, it should look smooth and relatively thick, and the whole process should not take longer than 5–7 minutes. Remove from the heat (to prevent it thickening further), taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Spoon 2–3 tablespoons of the thick tomato and potato mixture over the base of a deep baking dish, measuring about 20 x 28cm (8 x 11 inches). Place the fried cod on top. Spoon over the tomato and potato mix. Smooth it out with the back of a spoon, then use the back of a fork to create a cross-hatch pattern. Bake in the oven for 25–30 minutes until lightly browned on top, then serve immediately, sprinkled with capers or chopped parsley and drizzled with good-quality olive oil. I like to serve boiled greens, simply dressed with olive oil and lemon juice, on the side. Desalting cod The most important step of any recipe involving salt cod is to properly desalt it. You first need to wash it thoroughly under running water. If the fillet is whole, slice it into portions. A fillet weighing about 800g (1¾lb) is usually cut into four or six fairly equal portions. Place the cod in a large glass container (glass is important as it is salt resistant) filled with fresh, cold water and leave to soak. Most recipes call for 24 hours of soaking, but in my opinion it’s not enough and I soak it for between 35 and 48 hours, depending on thickness. However, excess soaking can ruin the texture of the flesh, so you need to keep an eye on it. It is important to change the water every 3–4 hours at first, then a little less often. Cover the container each time and place in the refrigerator. When the fish is ready, it will look like a fresh fish fillet again. Strain the water and remove the skin if you like – I usually do, although it is not essential for this particular recipe. If you keep it with the skin, make sure the skin-side faces the bottom of your chosen dish. Moussaka There have long been disputes over the origins of moussaka. Whether the recipe comes from Byzantine Greeks, Ottomans, Persians, Palestinians or Arabs, its name has undisputedly Arab roots, deriving from the word musaqqa’a, which literally means ‘that which soaks up liquid’. Many food historians argue that the recipe was initially inspired by the Persian maguma, a dish with lamb and aubergines (eggplants), others claim it has evolved from the Palestinian/Ara

cherry tomatoes, halved 270g (10oz) tomato passata (sieved tomatoes) 50ml (2fl oz) warm water 70g (2½oz) Kalamata olives, pitted 60g (2oz) feta, crumbled Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Extra virgin olive oil, to serve Peel and clean/devein the prawns (shrimp), keeping their heads and tails in place. Season with a little salt and pepper and set aside. Place a large, ovenproof pan over a medium heat, heat half the olive oil and sauté the prawns for 1–2 minutes just until they change colour. Transfer to a plate. In the same pan, heat the remaining oil and sauté the onion until soft and glossy. Add the garlic, bay leaves and thyme, stir for another minute, then pour in the ouzo. Give it a couple of minutes to infuse, then add the halved tomatoes, stir and pour in the passata and warm water. Season with a little salt (keep in mind that you’ll be adding feta and olives which are salty) and plenty of pepper, lower the heat to medium and let it cook for 5–8 minutes until the sauce thickens. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 210°C/190°C fan/410°F/gas mark 6½. Return the prawns to the pan, add the olives and sprinkle the crumbled feta on top. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for another 15 minutes, or until the feta starts melting. Remove from the oven, drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil and serve immediately. 1 Without doubt the best known, most widespread and versatile of Greek cheeses, a PDO product and the star of myriad Greek dishes. Made primarily with sheep’s milk and sometimes an addition of up to 30 per cent goat’s milk, feta ranges from the very soft, creamy and buttery, to hard, spicy and salty; the more it ages, the harder and spicier it gets. 2 A dry, anise-flavoured liquor which is served as an aperitif or accompanies food. It is made with a grape or grain distillate in traditional copper cauldrons, flavoured with a variety of herbs, seeds and spices. Uniquely Greek (it can only be made in Greece and Cyprus), it is commonly served diluted in iced water. Butternut squash fritters with olives and herbs Fritters made from seasonal vegetables or pulses are prepared in most parts of Greece, using courgettes (zucchini), aubergines (eggplant), potatoes, leeks or mixed leafy greens like spinach and sorrel – even nettles. The islands are particularly big on these kinds of fritters, or pseftokeftedes as they call them, meaning ‘fake meatballs’. They are primarily a result of the ‘poor kitchen’ and of the long fasting periods of the past, when methods were invented to replace meat or other animal products. The fritters are typically fried in order to acquire a crispy outer layer, and although some home cooks now prefer to bake them, I do insist on the traditional fried version – they are delightfully crispy on the outside, moist and fresh on the inside, and they don’t feel heavy or oily at all. The secret for success here is to let the grated butternut drain well and to use plenty of chopped fresh herbs and onions. The fritters are typically served with yogurt or a yogurt-based dip such as tzatziki. Here, I pair it with a simple and versatile minty yogurt dip, which you can use in many other recipes. SERVES 4 350g (12oz) butternut squash, grated (using the big holes of a box grater) 1 tsp salt 1 medium white onion, finely chopped 2 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped 75g (2½oz) pitted green olives, roughly chopped 4 tbsp chopped mint 2 tbsp chopped parsley 2 tbsp chopped dill 2 eggs, lightly beaten 100g (3½oz) feta, crumbled 50g (2oz) plain (all-purpose) flour 1 tsp baking powder Oil, for frying (I use a light olive oil or sunflower oil)

chicken, though tougher, which means it needs to be gently slow cooked. You can use a chicken instead, in which case the cooking time will be slightly shorter. The cheese traditionally used here is called sfela 1 , an ancient, PDO cheese of the Messinia and Mani regions, also known as ‘the cheese of fire’. Sfela is not easy to find outside of Greece, but it can be replaced by feta or a combination of feta and a hard cheese like a spicy, aged kefalotyri or pecorino. The green olives add a delightful tangy punch, which makes my tastebuds happy! The cockerel is usually served over thick spaghetti, bucatini-style pasta or hylopites, the traditional Greek egg and milk noodles that either look similar to tagliatelle or can be small and square-shaped – popular with children. It is the perfect dish to prepare for a Sunday family feast. SERVES 6 1 cockerel (or free-range chicken), about 2.5kg (5½lb), cut into portions 100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil, plus a splash for the pasta 4 large white onions, roughly chopped 3–4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 bay leaves 4–5 allspice berries 1 cinnamon stick ¼ tsp ground cloves 1–2 sprigs of rosemary (or 1 tbsp dried rosemary) 4 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp tomato purée (paste) 500g (1lb 2oz) tomatoes, puréed in a blender (or use canned) 150ml (5fl oz) hot water 250g (9oz) feta, crumbled 200g (7oz) pitted green olives 1–2 tbsp chopped parsley 500g (1lb 2oz) thick spaghetti (I like to use number 6) or bucatini Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Wash and pat dry the cockerel. Season with a little salt and pepper and let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, place a large, wide pot over a medium-high heat. Pour in half the olive oil. Once hot, add the onions, stir and bring the heat down to low. Season with salt and black pepper to taste, cover and gently cook for about 20 minutes until soft and glossy. Check the onions occasionally while they are cooking and gently stir to prevent them from sticking. Once ready, remove the pot from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, remove the onions to a plate, leaving the remaining olive oil in the pot. Place the pot back over a medium-high heat. Pour in enough of the remaining olive oil to just cover the bottom of the pot and, in batches, brown the cockerel pieces for about 3–4 minutes on each side, adding more oil when necessary. Transfer the browned cockerel to a plate. Bring the heat down to medium-low, add the remaining olive oil and gently sauté together the garlic, bay leaves, allspice, cinnamon, cloves and rosemary. Add the vinegar, stir, mix in the tomato purée (paste) and pour in the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and place the cockerel pieces back in the pot. When the sauce is gently simmering, pour in the hot water. Cover and gently simmer for about 1½ hours until the meat is tender and falling off the bone, checking occasionally to make sure it has enough liquid to cook without burning at the bottom, and adding a little extra water if needed. Using a slotted spoon, remove the cockerel portions from the sauce and place on a platter. Return the sauce to a medium heat and add the cooked onions. Gently stir and simmer, uncovered, for another 15 minutes. Add the crumbled feta and olives, season with salt and pepper to taste and let simmer for another 10 minutes until the sauce thickens. Mix in the chopped parsley and place the cockerel pieces back in the sauce. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in boiling salted water, according to the packet instructions. Drain and add a splash of olive oil. Serve the cockerel over the cooked pasta, with freshly ground black pepper, and enjoy! 1 A hard, salty cheese with PDO status, made with sheep’s and goat’s milk, resembling pecorino and used in a similar way, particularly grated. OIL Watermelon summer salad with purslane, capers and feta The combination of watermelon and feta is an old-school Greek classic that has made a grand comeback. Watermelon works so well with white cheeses and it is a wonderful addition in refreshing summer salads, successfully substituting tomatoes. Ancient Greek doctors used them for hydration, as a diuretic, and to treat sunburn and sunstroke. Purslane is a weed that grows like crazy during summer – even in random pots on my balcony in downtown Athens. It’s packed with vitamins and we use it a lot in salads – even in a regular Greek salad – and other recipes such as stews. The caper plant is another precious weed widely used in the Greek kitchen. During late spring it starts to grow everywhere, even out of walls and pavements in the centre of Athens. The Acropolis hill is covered in capers throughout summer and the islands are full of large wild caper bushes that climb down steep hills and hang off rocks; those growing near the sea are considered the best. Capers are very nutritious, packed with vitamins, minerals and strong antioxidants, and the ancient Greeks believed in the plant’s magical as well as medicinal powers. The actual caper is a bud that blooms into a stunning white-pinkish flower with a violet stamen, although the leaves can also be preserved and used in recipes. Later on in the summer, the plant produces a little, oblong berry which in Greece we call ‘caper cucumbers’. These are also preserved in a similar way as the buds, and they are simply amazing. On certain islands, like Chios, pickled caper berries are stuffed with garlic cloves and served as a lovely meze alongside tsipouro or ouzo. Instead of vinegar, I use agourida, also known as verjus. It has a fresher, milder flavour compared to vinegar and it’s less tangy than lemon – ideal in salads, syrups and cocktails. SERVES 4–6 1 medium red onion, halved and sliced 450g (1lb) peeled watermelon, deseeded and diced 150g (5oz) teardrop or cherry tomatoes, halved 2 Lebanese cucumbers with skin, sliced into rounds A bunch of purslane, thick stems discarded, separated into small clusters with leaves 1–2 sprigs of oregano or 1 tsp dried 2 tbsp capers 6–8 Kalamata olives 1 tbsp verjus or red wine vinegar 130g (4½oz) feta, crumbled 100ml (3½fl oz) early harvest olive oil Flaky sea salt To soften the sliced onion and make it less astringent, soak in cold water for 10–15 minutes, then drain and pat dry. Place the watermelon, tomatoes, cucumbers, purslane and onion in a large bowl. Strip the oregano leaves from the stem, if using fresh, and add to the bowl. Add the capers and olives, sprinkle with a little flaky sea salt, and pour in the verjus or vinegar. Gently toss. Transfer to a salad bowl or platter. Sprinkle with the feta and drizzle with the olive oil. TIP To deseed a watermelon without ruining its shape, use a toothpick. Ladenia, baked flatbread with tomato, onions and capers This recipe originates from Kimolos, a small Cycladic island that sits next to Milos. Legend has it that the island was named after its first inhabitant, who was married to Taurus’ daughter, Side. The island has its own popular dishes, but the most famous of all is this pie. Resembling a relatively thick-crusted pizza, this recipe presents ladenia in its most basic form, which I adore. It can be ‘dressed up’ once baked, with some crumbled or flaked cheese (such as feta, aged Greek graviera 1 , pecorino or Parmesan). For special occasions, or when I wish to pair it with a wine or beer, I like to add thin slices of a cured meat like louza 2 , sliced prosciutto, or a spicy chorizo. You will need a large, round and slightly deep baking tin/pan (I use one that is 30–35cm/12–14 inches in diameter). SERVES 4

mint, spring onions (scallions) and a little salt. Spoon the yogurt over the top of the pie, creating a thin, even layer. Create another layer with the diced tomato mix on top. Slice the pie like a pizza and serve it drizzled with a few drops of olive oil and sprinkled with a little smoked paprika. Beef dolmades with avgolemono sauce I believe that everyone has certain dishes that, one way or another, are inextricably linked with memories of certain people. In my case, beef dolmades in luscious avgolemono sauce is something I connect to my grandmother, Rena, who influenced my love of this dish, and I think of her every single time I make or eat it. Her husband, my grandfather George, a grand lemon lover, really became an expert in avgolemono sauce. I have vivid memories of him standing over a bowl with the frothy egg sauce, beating with a whisk, while my grandmother gently poured in warm broth from the pot. Dolmades are prepared all over Greece with different kinds of leaves or fillings. During winter, cabbage is commonly used, and stuffed cabbage rolls with pork is one of the traditional dishes prepared in Greece on Christmas day. This custom is rooted in Byzantine practices and Greek Orthodox religion, and the cabbage leaves wrapped around the filling stand for the swaddling clothes that baby Jesus was wrapped in. Serve with fresh bread. SERVES 6–8 70–80 vine leaves, fresh or from a jar 500g (1lb 2oz) minced (ground) beef (or half pork, half beef) 1 medium onion, chopped 3 spring onions (scallions), including the green part, chopped 2 tbsp chopped parsley (reserve the stems) 2 tbsp chopped mint (reserve the stems) 2 tbsp chopped dill (reserve the stems) 160ml (5½fl oz) olive oil 90g (3¼oz) short-grain white rice 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp lemon juice Hot vegetable stock or water Freshly ground black pepper

pological and sociological side of it: how they were educated, how they used to spend their day, what their eating habits were, their religious customs and how those were connected to food and ingredients, and other such questions. I found the answers in history books and essays, in Greek mythology and in the writings of ancient masters, including Homer and Herodotus. I believe it is our duty to treasure and preserve our culinary traditions and recipes. All of them, if we can: recipes that evolved out of need and poverty and were then forgotten; recipes that have already been preserved for centuries or altered along the way; recipes or ingredients with symbolic meanings; recipes that require time and skill. They are our history and heritage. My passion for gastronomy is constantly alive and growing. It gives me great pleasure to share in this book the knowledge and experience of Greek cuisine and culture that I have lovingly built up. I hope that through this I can contribute to the revival of old recipes that may be lesser known but worth preserving. At the same time, I like to dig into the story of each dish, the traditions associated with it, or its symbolic meaning. I hope to transport the reader to the Greece I love so much, and to present through each recipe the different regions and islands, their local produce, folk tales and traditions. I have chosen to divide this book into chapters that offer an ingredient-centric approach to cooking, selecting the core foods that have defined Greek cuisine for several centuries. Recipes cater for all levels of cook, for different styles of palate, flavour or dietary requirement. While I encompass all kinds of recipes, including those for meat and seafood, my main chapter ingredients are plant-based, because plant-based dishes are the true essence of the traditional Greek kitchen. Meat is there, but it would have been used in smaller amounts in order to add flavour and protein rather than be the actual star of the dish – with certain exceptions, of course, that were mostly related to special occasions. By focusing on one main ingredient, or the source – such as the hive, or a whole plant such as the vine or olive tree – and showing the many different ways it can be used, I aim to present recipes that are accessible, sustainable and cost-efficient while also being satisfying, nutritious and, of course, delicious. Greek cuisine is shaped creatively in order to make use of everything available and I feel ultimate fulfilment when I have used all possible parts of an ingredient; this is the greatest way to honour and respect it. Simple, flavourful, comforting, nourishing, and certainly seasonal food is what I aim for when I cook, and it’s what I usually crave to eat and share with others. With this book, I invite you to explore the wonderful secrets of my own Greek kitchen, with all its history and heartwarming tales. Kali orexi! 1 1 ‘bon appétit’ in Greek The Roots and Evolution of Greek Cuisine Greek cuisine is shaped by a prodigious climate, diverse landscape and abundant natural resources. The ancient knowledge of working with the land and the sea, being in coherence with the seasons and respectful to what nature has to offer, is evident in the local gastronomy. Gastronomy is an ancient Greek word, deriving from the words gastir (stomach) and nomia (knowledge, law), literally meaning the ‘rules/law of the stomach’. Both words, gastir and nomia, have been used in the Greek language since Homer’s time, but the term is actually attributed to Archestratus, the 4 th century BCE Greek poet, who was possibly the first to study and write to such an extent about the pleasures of eating and the laws of appetite. In his work, Hydipathia or Gastronomia 1 , the gourmet writer of antiquity wittily describes the secrets of ancient Greek gastronomy, shares full recipes, and dedicates whole chapters to wine, pulses and fish – ingredients that remain staples in present-day Greek cuisine. Athenaeus, in his book Deipnosophistae (Dinner Sophists) written in the early 3 rd century CE, also provides valuable information about eating habits and particular recipes; his book describes in detail banquet conversations on food, literature and the arts. Several other writings, including Homer’s stories, Aristophanes’ plays, Plato’s Symposium and the works of Hippocrates, who preached: ‘Let food be your medicine and medicine be your food’, clarify ancient eating habits. Archaeological excavations have also proved invaluable, with some of the oldest findings dating to the Bronze Age Aegean Civilization 2 that brought to light not only the main ingredients that were used, but also specialized equipment and cooking methods. We know, for instance, that the ancient Greeks made sausages, and matured cheese in caves; they grilled skewered meat (similar to today’s souvlaki) on krateftes 3 , and they loved garon (a fermented fish sauce later named ‘garum’ by the Romans) and served it as a condiment with almost every dish. They baked breads and pies – which in fact were a particularly popular snack in 5 th century BCE Athens. We know the diet was generally based on three main ingredients: the olive, vine and cereal. Other ingredients commonly used included pulses, honey, vegetables and fruit, nuts and seeds, fish and seafood, herbs, snails, eggs, cheese, and a variety of specific meats and game, although meat in general was consumed mostly by the upper classes or on special occasions. The use of herbs was extensive, with a wide variety that included thyme, coriander (cilantro), parsley, dill, basil, marjoram, rosemary, bay, oregano and others. Apart from in cooking, herbs were also used medicinally. Trade was a big part of the economy, bringing cultural interaction and exchange. The ancient Greeks were organized merchants and seamen who travelled a lot around the region and were consequently inspired by other great cultures such as the Assyrians, the Phoenicians (Canaanites) and the Egyptians. Several findings around the Mediterranean region, including shipwrecks, have revealed much about ancient commerce, imports and exports. Greeks imported spices and other ‘exotic’ goods such as aniseed from Egypt and rosinweed from Libya, and they exported olive oil, olives and wine, among other goods. Mythology provides another excellent source of information about the diet and culinary traditions of the ancient Greeks. The foundations of the diet are summarized with the three Oenotrophae (the ‘winegrowers’), the granddaughters of God Dionysus: Elais, whose name derives from elia, which in Greek means olive, her sister Spermo, deriving from sperma which in Greek means seed, and Oeno, deriving from oenos, which means wine. The three sisters represent the three main ingredients of the Greek diet: olive oil, wheat and wine. This core diet endured over the centuries. Many recipes were adopted and further developed by the Romans, who were the most proficient disseminators of culinary traditions in the West. The diet and cuisine during the Byzantine era (395–1453 CE) remained largely the same, aside from the introduction of a handful of ingredients, such as nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, botargo and caviar. Valuable information can be gleaned about everyday Byzantine life from the 10 th century CE dictionary titled Souda, and extensive and remarkable literary research on the specific subject has been done by Sir Richard Dalby, among others. This research highlights that anise-infused spirits (the predecessors of what was later named ouzo) were prepared and offered as aperitifs, and exported throughout the Mediterranean; baking was considered a prestigious occupation for the Byzantines, while desserts gradually became more elaborate and complex, with an extensive use of milk in certain recipes, such as rice puddings and cream pies (like galaktoboureko and bougatsa); fruit preserves and compotes were also partic

Rice Flour HIVE Honey Comb Pollen SEED Pulse Nut Seeds VINE Grape Plant Ferment Index Suppliers Acknowledgements Copyright Page Introduction I grew up in Greece, a country full of history, and have lived most of my life in Athens, a city that wonderfully blends and balances the ancient with the modern. For me, this blend is how I experience the cuisine of this age-old culture. Its roots are ancient, its core has been preserved, yet it has harmoniously developed over the years, and I would say has been gracefully touched by the course of history, from both West and East. I have been cooking from a very young age and food has been an integral part of my life. I experience a unique pleasure from cooking and a whole different level of pleasure from eating. I owe this joy of eating to my beloved grandfather George, who taught me so much, and I owe my love of cooking to my mother Tesi, who gave me my first cookbook as soon as I was able to read. Cooking is a form of art, of communication, and indeed an expression of love; love is an essential ingredient in all the dishes I cook. I like food with soul, no matter where it comes from and how fast or simple it is to prepare. To me, Greek cuisine is fresh and seasonal; an ancient, wise kitchen with soul. Sustainable and resourceful, it is principally a maternal cuisine that is nutritious and comforting at the same time. It doesn’t need too many elements or anything fancy, but it will certainly impress your senses and tastebuds. Just as every ingredient and dish can be associated with a time and place in Greece’s history, for me every flavour and scent is associated with a special memory in my own history. A taste of avgolemono instantly transports me to my grandmother’s kitchen; the scent of melomakarona feels like my mother’s hug; while botargo reminds me of my grandfather, with whom I always shared it. The geographic location of a country hugely defines its cuisine, and Greece is no exception. Food is produced all over the country, even on the driest island, where you might savour the best thyme honey or the most flavourful capers, wild oregano, tiny chickpeas, fresh cheese, or the freshest seafood. Every single part of Greece is blessed with at least a couple of exceptional food products. I have had the pleasure and luck of travelling a lot around the country, researching regional cuisines: their local produce, the ingredients and techniques they use, as well as the wonderful results. Moreover, it is astonishing to me how a small country like Greece has such regional diversity in its cuisine and how each region retains its own sense of tradition – not just in the recipes themselves, but in all the associated traditions, including the way each dish is served, eaten and celebrated. It is this wonderment and intrigue that pushed me to dive deeper into Hellenic cuisine and the more I discover from the history that unravels, the prouder I feel. By studying the cuisine and recipes of a culture, you obtain a much better understanding of the history and how different cultures exchanged their knowledge and experience through their culinary worlds; traditions acquired and passed on by the civilizations from which we evolved. I have always been fascinated by ancient history and Greek mythology – mostly concerning the anthropological and sociological side of it: how they were educated, how they used to spend their day, what their eating habits were, their religious customs and how those were connected to food and ingredients, and other such questions. I found the answers in history books and essays, in Greek mythology and in the writings of ancient masters, including Homer and Herodotus. I believe it is our duty to treasure and preserve our culinary traditions and recipes. All of them, if we can: recipes that evolved out of need and poverty and were then forgotten; recipes that have already been preserved for centuries or altered along the way; recipes or ingredients with symbolic meanings; recipes that require time and skill. They are our history and heritage. My passion for gastronomy is constantly alive and growing. It gives me great pleasure to share in this book the knowledge and experience of Greek cuisine and culture that I have lovingly built up. I hope that through this I can contribute to the revival of old recipes that may be lesser known but worth preserving. At the same time, I like to dig into the story of each dish, the traditions associated with it, or its symbolic meaning. I hope to transport the reader to the Greece I love so much, and to present through each recipe the different regions and islands, their local produce, folk tales and traditions. I have chosen to divide this book into chapters that offer an ingredient-centric approach to cooking, selecting the core foods that have defined Greek cuisine for several centuries. Recipes cater for all levels of cook, for different styles of palate, flavour or dietary requirement. While I encompass all kinds of recipes, including those for meat and seafood, my main chapter ingredients are plant-based, because plant-based dishes are the true essence of the traditional Greek kitchen. Meat is there, but it would have been used in smaller amounts in order to add flavour and protein rather than be the actual star of the dish – with certain exceptions, of course, that were mostly related to special occasions. By focusing on one main ingredient, or the source – such as the hive, or a whole plant such as the vine or olive tree – and showing the many different ways it can be used, I aim to present recipes that are accessible, sustainable and cost-efficient while also being satisfying, nutritious and, of course, delicious. Greek cuisine is shaped creatively in order to make use of everything available and I feel ultimate fulfilment when I have used all possible parts of an ingredient; this is the greatest way to honour and respect it. Simple, flavourful, comforting, nourishing, and certainly seasonal food is what I aim for when I cook, and it’s what I usually crave to eat and share with others. With this book, I invite you to explore the wonderful secrets of my own Greek kitchen, with all its history and heartwarming tales. Kali orexi! 1 1 ‘bon appétit’ in Greek The Roots and Evolution of Greek Cuisine Greek cuisine is shaped by a prodigious climate, diverse landscape and abundant natural resources. The ancient knowledge of working with the land and the sea, being in coherence with the seasons and respectful to what nature has to offer, is evident in the local gastronomy. Gastronomy is an ancient Greek word, deriving from the words gastir (stomach) and nomia (knowledge, law), literally meaning the ‘rules/law of the stomach’. Both words, gastir and nomia, have been used in the Greek language since Homer’s time, but the term is actually attributed to Archestratus, the 4 th century BCE Greek poet, who was possibly the first to study and write to such an extent about the pleasures of eating and the laws of appetite. In his work, Hydipathia or Gastronomia 1 , the gourmet writer of antiquity wittily describes the secrets of ancient Greek gastronomy, shares full recipes, and dedicates whole chapters to wine, pulses and fish – ingredients that remain staples in present-day Greek cuisine. Athenaeus, in his book Deipnosophistae (Dinner Sophists) written in the early 3 rd century CE, also provides valuable information about eating habits and particular recipes; his book describes in detail banquet conversations on food, literature and the arts. Several other writings, including Homer’s stories, Aristophanes’ plays, Plato’s Symposium and the works of Hippocrates, who preached: ‘Let food be your medicine and medicine be your food’, clarify ancient eating habits. Archaeological excavations have also proved invaluable, with some of the oldest findings dating to the Bronze Age Aegean Civilization 2 that brought to light not only

braised in olive oil There is a whole category of recipes in Greek cuisine called ladera, meaning ‘in oil’ or ‘oily’. These are seasonal vegetable dishes that are mostly stewed, in either a tomato or lemon sauce, and with a generous amount of olive oil that is added towards the end of cooking to thicken the sauce and add flavour. Many of these recipes evolved from the Byzantine era and the Christian Orthodox tradition, when the Lents and the weekly fasting were entrenched. This style of cooking greatly defines the essence of the Mediterranean and Greek diet. Recipes of such kind are very popular and are commonly prepared in the average Greek household on a weekly basis, typically using green beans, broad (fava) beans, artichokes, peas, aubergine (eggplant), courgettes (zucchini), okra, leeks and cauliflower. The quality of the olive oil and its flavour will naturally affect the result, and for this I use Koroneiki extra virgin olive oil from the Peloponnese. Stewed peas are among the most popular ladera dishes; they complement the simplicity of flavours in this dish and glorify the presence of olive oil in cooking. I add leeks here for their wonderful yet subtle sweetness. It is due to these delicious and simple vegetable dishes that we Greeks consume so much feta and bread … do serve these alongside to wipe your dish with! SERVES 4–6 80ml (2¾fl oz) olive oil, plus 120ml (4fl oz) to finish 2 large onions, chopped 4 leeks, trimmed and cut into rounds 3cm (1¼ inch) thick 2 bay leaves 3 garlic cloves, chopped 3 carrots, cut into 2cm (¾ inch) batons, or sliced 2 potatoes, halved lengthwise then each half quartered 1kg (2lb 3oz) peas, fresh or frozen ¼ tsp ground cinnamon Pinch of ground allspice 80g (3oz) tomato purée (paste), diluted in 150ml (5fl oz) water 300ml (10fl oz) warm vegetable stock or water 4–5 tbsp chopped dill Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper It is best to use a large, wide and fairly shallow pan with a well-fitting lid so the vegetables will cook without losing their shape or going too mushy. Place your pan over a medium-high heat and pour in the 80ml (2¾fl oz) olive oil. Add the onions and sauté for about 6 minutes until soft and glossy. Add the leeks and bay leaves, and gently cook with the onions until the leeks slightly soften. Add the garlic, carrots, potatoes and peas. Season with salt and black pepper, and add the cinnamon and allspice. Gently stir and pour in the diluted tomato purée (paste), followed by the warm stock or water. Bring the heat down to medium-low, cover and simmer for 30 minutes, then remove the lid and continue to simmer for another 15 minutes, until the sauce is thickened. Pour in the 120ml (4fl oz) olive oil and add the dill. Adjust the seasoning if necessary, gently shake the pot without stirring, and simmer over a low heat for another 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let it rest for 10– 15 minutes before serving. Mashed potatoes with olive oil, roast garlic and herbs Potatoes reached Europe during the 16 th century, alongside other goods imported from the New World. Potatoes, however, didn’t reach Greece until after the Greek War of Independence in 1821 and the emergence of the Modern Greek state in 1830. In fact, it was Ioannis Kapodistrias, the first governor of the newly founded state, who initiated the import of potatoes into the country. He believed that this filling and nutritious tuber would be an ideal food for poor, post-war Greeks. The Greeks, however, didn’t trust the new ingredient and when he tried to offer potatoes to farmers in Nafplion, they threw them away! To make them change their minds, Kapodistrias followed the example of Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, the Frenchman who made the French love potatoes. Kapodistrias decided to stop offering them for free. Instead, he started treating them as a superior ingredient. He stored them, fenced them, and he installed guards who pretended to keep watch over them. People started sneaking in to steal them, and within a week all the potatoes were gone. The best kind of Greek potato is the Naxos variety (a PGI – Protected Geographic Indication – product), which itself instigated the development of cow breeding on the island; locals also noticed that with the use of cow manure, the potatoes grew larger and tastier. The Naxos potato variety is nowadays cultivated in other parts of Greece as well and is the kind of potato I usually go for. For a variation, mix in about half a cup of crumbled feta; in which case, season with salt after the feta has been added. SERVES 4–6 1 large head of garlic 1kg (2lb 3oz) potatoes (ideal for mashing), peeled and cut into chunks ½ lemon 1 sprig of thyme 130ml (4½fl oz) olive oil 1–2 tbsp chopped thyme, parsley or dill Sea salt and white pepper Preheat the oven to 210°C/190°C fan/410°F/gas mark 6½. Cut the top off the head of garlic, wrap in baking parchment and then in foil. Bake in the oven for 30–40 minutes, until soft. Squeeze out all the creamy roasted garlic cloves into a bowl and set aside. Meanwhile, place a large saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the potatoes, lemon half and thyme sprig, cover with cold water, add salt and bring to the boil. Reduce to medium-low and let simmer for about 15–20 minutes until the potatoes are fork-tender. Drain, reserving 200ml (7fl oz) of the cooking water. Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl and mash thoroughly using a potato masher or a hand-held mixer on a low speed. (Do not use a food processor because the potatoes will turn gummy.) Gradually start adding some of the reserved cooking water, 1 tablespoon at a time. This will help you smooth it further and bring it to the right consistency. Add the garlic purée and salt and white pepper to taste, and continue to mash. Gradually start adding the olive oil until it is all incorporated. Finally, mix in the chopped herbs, adjust the seasoning if necessary, and serve. LEAF Greece is one of the richest countries in the world for natural, aromatic herbs and edible weeds; it is estimated that over 6,600 kinds of natural herbs grow in Greece, 1,600 of which are listed as medicinal aromatic herbs. These include well known herbs such as rosemary and sage, but also very rare varieties that grow just in specific regions of Greece or in a few parts of the world, such as red oregano. Here are two of my favourite recipes using olive leaves; one a nice, healing herbal tea and the other a jelly (jello), which is light and refreshing and not too sweet (I only use honey and fresh fruit juice to sweeten jellies). Herbs in these recipes add a discreet yet unique aroma and a pleasant flavour. Dried olive leaves can be found in speciality stores, delis and online. To make easy fresh pomegranate juice, squeeze it just like you would an orange in a citrus juicer. Olive leaf, hibiscus and pomegranate jelly MAKES 1 LARGE JELLY OR 8–10 INDIVIDUAL JELLIES 4 tbsp dried olive tree leaves 4 tbsp dried hibiscus 4 tbsp lemon verbena 2–3 pared strips of lemon zest (using a swivel peeler) 8 cloves 30g (1oz) powdered gelatine 230g (8oz) honey 500ml (17fl oz) cold, strained pomegranate juice (see introduction) Seeds from 1 large pomegranate Bring 1.5 litres (56fl oz) water to the boil in a medium pan, then turn off the heat and add the olive leaves, hibiscus, verbena, lemon zest and cloves. Cover and let stand for a couple of hours until it turns a deep ruby colour. Strain though a very fine sieve or cheesecloth. Pour 200ml (7fl oz) of the strained room-temperature tea into a small jug (pitcher) or bowl. Sprinkle the gelatine on top and give it 5 minutes to soften. Mix and set aside. Pour 1 litre (34fl oz) of the herbal tea into a saucepan. Place over a medium heat and gently heat. Remove from the heat and mix in the honey and the gelatine mixture until dissolved. Mix the pomegranate juice with the remaining 300ml (10fl oz) room- temperature tea. Finally, combine the warm tea mix with the pomegranat

chicken, though tougher, which means it needs to be gently slow cooked. You can use a chicken instead, in which case the cooking time will be slightly shorter. The cheese traditionally used here is called sfela 1 , an ancient, PDO cheese of the Messinia and Mani regions, also known as ‘the cheese of fire’. Sfela is not easy to find outside of Greece, but it can be replaced by feta or a combination of feta and a hard cheese like a spicy, aged kefalotyri or pecorino. The green olives add a delightful tangy punch, which makes my tastebuds happy! The cockerel is usually served over thick spaghetti, bucatini-style pasta or hylopites, the traditional Greek egg and milk noodles that either look similar to tagliatelle or can be small and square-shaped – popular with children. It is the perfect dish to prepare for a Sunday family feast. SERVES 6 1 cockerel (or free-range chicken), about 2.5kg (5½lb), cut into portions 100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil, plus a splash for the pasta 4 large white onions, roughly chopped 3–4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 bay leaves 4–5 allspice berries 1 cinnamon stick ¼ tsp ground cloves 1–2 sprigs of rosemary (or 1 tbsp dried rosemary) 4 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp tomato purée (paste) 500g (1lb 2oz) tomatoes, puréed in a blender (or use canned) 150ml (5fl oz) hot water 250g (9oz) feta, crumbled 200g (7oz) pitted green olives 1–2 tbsp chopped parsley 500g (1lb 2oz) thick spaghetti (I like to use number 6) or bucatini Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Wash and pat dry the cockerel. Season with a little salt and pepper and let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, place a large, wide pot over a medium-high heat. Pour in half the olive oil. Once hot, add the onions, stir and bring the heat down to low. Season with salt and black pepper to taste, cover and gently cook for about 20 minutes until soft and glossy. Check the onions occasionally while they are cooking and gently stir to prevent them from sticking. Once ready, remove the pot from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, remove the onions to a plate, leaving the remaining olive oil in the pot. Place the pot back over a medium-high heat. Pour in enough of the remaining olive oil to just cover the bottom of the pot and, in batches, brown the cockerel pieces for about 3–4 minutes on each side, adding more oil when necessary. Transfer the browned cockerel to a plate. Bring the heat down to medium-low, add the remaining olive oil and gently sauté together the garlic, bay leaves, allspice, cinnamon, cloves and rosemary. Add the vinegar, stir, mix in the tomato purée (paste) and pour in the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and place the cockerel pieces back in the pot. When the sauce is gently simmering, pour in the hot water. Cover and gently simmer for about 1½ hours until the meat is tender and falling off the bone, checking occasionally to make sure it has enough liquid to cook without burning at the bottom, and adding a little extra water if needed. Using a slotted spoon, remove the cockerel portions from the sauce and place on a platter. Return the sauce to a medium heat and add the cooked onions. Gently stir and simmer, uncovered, for another 15 minutes. Add the crumbled feta and olives, season with salt and pepper to taste and let simmer for another 10 minutes until the sauce thickens. Mix in the chopped parsley and place the cockerel pieces back in the sauce. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in boiling salted water, according to the packet instructions. Drain and add a splash of olive oil. Serve the cockerel over the cooked pasta, with freshly ground black pepper, and enjoy! 1 A hard, salty cheese with PDO status, made with sheep’s and goat’s milk, resembling pecorino and used in a similar way, particularly grated. OIL Watermelon summer salad with purslane, capers and feta The combination of watermelon and feta is an old-school Greek classic that has made a grand comeback. Watermelon works so well with white cheeses and it is a wonderful addition in refreshing summer salads, successfully substituting tomatoes. Ancient Greek doctors used them for hydration, as a diuretic, and to treat sunburn and sunstroke. Purslane is a weed that grows like crazy during summer – even in random pots on my balcony in downtown Athens. It’s packed with vitamins and we use it a lot in salads – even in a regular Greek salad – and other recipes such as stews. The caper plant is another precious weed widely used in the Greek kitchen. During late spring it starts to grow everywhere, even out of walls and pavements in the centre of Athens. The Acropolis hill is covered in capers throughout summer and the islands are full of large wild caper bushes that climb down steep hills and hang off rocks; those growing near the sea are considered the best. Capers are very nutritious, packed with vitamins, minerals and strong antioxidants, and the ancient Greeks believed in the plant’s magical as well as medicinal powers. The actual caper is a bud that blooms into a stunning white-pinkish flower with a violet stamen, although the leaves can also be preserved and used in recipes. Later on in the summer, the plant produces a little, oblong berry which in Greece we call ‘caper cucumbers’. These are also preserved in a similar way as the buds, and they are simply amazing. On certain islands, like Chios, pickled caper berries are stuffed with garlic cloves and served as a lovely meze alongside tsipouro or ouzo. Instead of vinegar, I use agourida, also known as verjus. It has a fresher, milder flavour compared to vinegar and it’s less tangy than lemon – ideal in salads, syrups and cocktails. SERVES 4–6 1 medium red onion, halved and sliced 450g (1lb) peeled watermelon, deseeded and diced 150g (5oz) teardrop or cherry tomatoes, halved 2 Lebanese cucumbers with skin, sliced into rounds A bunch of purslane, thick stems discarded, separated into small clusters with leaves 1–2 sprigs of oregano or 1 tsp dried 2 tbsp capers 6–8 Kalamata olives 1 tbsp verjus or red wine vinegar 130g (4½oz) feta, crumbled 100ml (3½fl oz) early harvest olive oil Flaky sea salt To soften the sliced onion and make it less astringent, soak in cold water for 10–15 minutes, then drain and pat dry. Place the watermelon, tomatoes, cucumbers, purslane and onion in a large bowl. Strip the oregano leaves from the stem, if using fresh, and add to the bowl. Add the capers and olives, sprinkle with a little flaky sea salt, and pour in the verjus or vinegar. Gently toss. Transfer to a salad bowl or platter. Sprinkle with the feta and drizzle with the olive oil. TIP To deseed a watermelon without ruining its shape, use a toothpick. Ladenia, baked flatbread with tomato, onions and capers This recipe originates from Kimolos, a small Cycladic island that sits next to Milos. Legend has it that the island was named after its first inhabitant, who was married to Taurus’ daughter, Side. The island has its own popular dishes, but the most famous of all is this pie. Resembling a relatively thick-crusted pizza, this recipe presents ladenia in its most basic form, which I adore. It can be ‘dressed up’ once baked, with some crumbled or flaked cheese (such as feta, aged Greek graviera 1 , pecorino or Parmesan). For special occasions, or when I wish to pair it with a wine or beer, I like to add thin slices of a cured meat like louza 2 , sliced prosciutto, or a spicy chorizo. You will need a large, round and slightly deep baking tin/pan (I use one that is 30–35cm/12–14 inches in diameter). SERVES 4

chocolate or an almond or hazelnut ice cream. SERVES 9 450g (1lb) thin filo (phyllo) pastry (for homemade) 200ml (7fl oz) sunflower oil, plus extra for greasing 4 large eggs, at room temperature 150g (5oz) caster (superfine) sugar Finely grated zest of 3 large oranges 1 tsp vanilla extract ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg 280g (10oz) Greek-style (strained) yogurt (thick and creamy) 2 tsp baking powder Ground cinnamon, to finish FOR THE SYRUP 200g (7oz) caster (superfine) sugar Juice of ½ lemon 1 cinnamon stick 6 cloves ½ orange with skin, cut into smaller pieces 4 tbsp honey (ideally orange blossom) 250ml (9fl oz) fresh orange juice

cream pies (like galaktoboureko and bougatsa); fruit preserves and compotes were also particularly popular at the time. Still, the principal ingredients remained the same: olive oil, wine, grains, nuts and seeds, fruit and honey. Byzantine culture was greatly affected by the new religion of Christianity. A lot of Greek and Roman practices – including some eating habits – were considered pagan and were either eliminated (for instance the use of blood in food like sausages) or incorporated gradually until ‘Christianized’ and approved. The new religion encouraged people to be humble and follow a simple lifestyle and diet. Animal-derived foods were eaten less as more Lent periods were inserted into the calendar; thus vegetarianism was enforced. This was the beginning of what became known as the ‘Greek Monastery Cuisine’ – a highly plant-based diet that occasionally included fish and seafood. The complex history of Greece and its geographic location, that was for years unstable, have proven invaluable to the formation of a national cuisine: constant occupations and cultural interactions have resulted in an astonishing regional culinary diversity, despite the country’s small size. During the rule of the Franks and the Venetians after the Fourth Crusade (1204), a number of mostly French, Venetian and Genoise states were established in regions of the fallen Byzantine Empire, leaving their most evident marks particularly on the islands, as well as in parts of the Peloponnese. With the arrival of the Ottomans, an Eastern, Asiatic flair was added to certain dishes. While adopting culinary traditions of the different cultures they occupied, the Ottomans incorporated those of great civilizations such as the Persians and the Arabs; the rich Byzantine culinary traditions lived on and became further enriched by these Eastern elements. Coffee and sugar gradually made their entry, butter was used more, desserts became more luscious, and the use of spices was further ingrained. With the fall of the Ottoman Empire, these legendary cuisines were gradually introduced via the exchange of populations between Greece and Turkey at different times in history, particularly between 1922 and 1957. Other influences came from parts of Anatolia and from the Pontos region of the Black Sea. The deportation of Greeks and persecuted Armenians, who had been settled in Asia Minor for thousands of years, and their resulting arrival in Greece had enormous culinary influence and enriched the cuisine in astonishing ways. When the modern Greek state was established after the Greek War of Independence in 1821, Athens was in a poor condition in terms of both infrastructure and identity. Due to its glorious past, a significant number of people, including politicians, archaeologists, historians, architects, scholars, businessmen, from both within and outside Greece, all worked together to re- establish the city, its cultural heritage, and historic significance in the foundations of Western Civilization. The cuisine of Athens gradually became a mix of the different regional cuisines of the people who started moving into the city. During the early 1930s, Nikolaos Tselementes, a Greek chef from the island of Sifnos who grew up in Athens and had spent time in Europe and the US, published a famous cookbook that for the first time redefined and modernized Greek cuisine. He fused mostly French-inspired elements (which were fashionable at the time) into more rustic Greek classics, and he artfully balanced Eastern and Western features in popular recipes. Bechamel sauce made its entry into the Greek kitchen in staple dishes such as moussaka and pastitsio, French pastry-making techniques were incorporated, and mayonnaise became a common ingredient in this more modern and sophisticated style of cooking, which was officially named ‘Urban Greek Cuisine’. It was further developed and enriched after World War II, and particularly during the 1950s and 60s, mostly in the larger cities such as Athens and Thessaloniki. In 1948, the Rockefeller Foundation conducted a study on the suffering post- war population of Crete. To their astonishment, the studies showed that the locals, despite facing financial and other difficulties, were surprisingly healthy. Allbaugh et al. describe the diet of the Cretans at the time as rich in ‘olives, cereal grains, pulses, wild greens and herbs, and fruits’ with ‘limited quantities of goat meat and milk, game, and fish’ and ‘swimming in olive oil’. 4 The first published mention of the term ‘Mediterranean diet’ appeared in 1953 and a further study on the health benefits of the specific diet was followed with the research known as the Seven Countries Study, conceived and led by Ancel Keys. In 2010, UNESCO affirmed that the diet of the countries overlooking the Mediterranean Basin represented ‘a cultural heritage of humanity’. In terms of ‘fast food’, the global shift in the 1980s gradually reached Greece as well, particularly during the 1990s, when I was a teenager. International fast-food chains started opening up in the big cities and ready-made frozen or processed food became a trend, mostly in order to ease the lives of working women, whose numbers were constantly increasing and thriving. Thankfully the trend proved temporary in Greece, with few of the large fast-food chains remaining open. Home-cooked food is rooted in the heart of every Greek and our national street food souvlaki (in its different forms) has remained people’s number one choice for ages, as have the pies like spanakopita. Over the last twenty years or so, there has been a big turn towards tradition, regional cooking and local, artisanal products. The simplicity of the traditional cuisine, preserved over the years, has been reevaluated and further appreciated for its health benefits, simplicity and respect for the ingredients that define it. Greek chefs are doing a great job, making their mark on the global culinary scene, winning awards for their creativity, and being motivated and inspired by the high-quality ingredients produced around the country. From high-end restaurants to simple tavernas, Greek cuisine is thriving, and seeing this fills me with so much pride. This book is my offering to the history and heritage of Greek cuisine and culture, and I hope it represents one more step into the widening circle of culinary secrets, so that even more people can learn, share and enjoy the wonderment of what passionate home cooks and chefs in Greece have been privy to and revelling in for generations. Notes on the Recipes All citrus should be unwaxed, especially if using the zest or peel. All eggs should be free-range or organic. In Greece, tomatoes are traditionally grated when used in home-style cooked dishes. After washing, grate the tomatoes whole until only the skin is left in your hand. Alternatively, you can blanch them for a couple of minutes to remove the skin, then chop or pulse them in a blender. If fresh ripe tomatoes are not available, I recommend using good-quality canned instead, along with some warm water. While inviting you to share in my passion for Greek cuisine, I would love to show you around the farmers’ markets on the mainland and islands where I buy the best seasonal produce; sadly I cannot do that. However, suitable ingredients are available online for those who don’t have ready suppliers in their locality. 1 The work survives in Deipnosophistae, an early 3 rd -century CE work written by Athenaeus. 2 Which includes the Minoan Civilization on Crete c. 2000–1450 BCE, the Mycenaean Civilization on mainland Greece c. 1700–1100 BCE and the Cycladic Civilization on the islands of the Cyclades c. 3200– 1050 BCE. 3 A special grilling device; the most ancient one exhibited at the museum of Akrotiri on the island of Santorini dates 1600 BCE. 4 Allbaugh, L.G. ‘Crete: A Case Study of an Underdeveloped Area’. Princeton, New Jersey; Princeto