Vietnamese Food Any Day

Char Siu Chicken (page 97), Grilled Slashed Chicken (page 155), Sriracha Tofu (page 150), ~- or Grilled Lemongrass Pork Chops (page 131) 2 fried eggs 2-egg omelet Liver paté or liverwurst VEGETABLE ADD-INS (CHOOSE ALL, SOME, OR NONE) Ya cup Any Day Viet Pickle (page 29), drained 3 or 4 thin slices medium-hot chile, such as jalapeno or Fresno (with seeds intact _ for fire and fun) 4 to 6 cucumber strips, rounds, or ovals, »ascant % inch thick 1 to 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped or hand-torn cilantro sprigs, mint leaves, or basil leaves . JICAMA AND SAUSAGE rice paper rolls MAKES 12 ROLLS, TO SERVE 4TO6 TAKES ABOUT 1 HOUR 22 teaspoons soy sauce Brimming 2 tablespoons tahini 2 to 2% tablespoons sriracha (use the maximum for a strong spicy edge) Ya cup hoisin sauce 1 to 1% tablespoons water 2 eggs Fine sea salt 3 tablespoons neutral oil 1% tablespoons finely chopped garlic One 1-pound jicama, peeled and cut into medium matchsticks 1 large handful medium matchstick-cut carrot (optional, for great color) 8 ounces fully cooked savory-sweet sausage links, cut on the diagonal into slices about 2 inches long and a scant % inch thick (24 slices) 1 tablespoon maple syrup Ys, teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder 22 cups gently packed baby lettuce or sliced soft leaf lettuce (such as butter, Boston, or red leaf) 12 rice papers, each 8 inches wide 63 SNACKS Loaded with a variety of textures and savory-sweet flavors, this Saigon street-food favorite is a close cousin of Malaysian and Singaporean popiah (think a colorful mu shu wrap). But instead of encasing the filling in a delicate wheat flour-based wrapper, Vietnamese cooks use rice paper for their rolls, which are called bo bia. (If rice paper seems challenging, see Rice Paper Rolls 101 on page 42 for pointers.) The original version features sliced sweet Chinese sausages, which are unavailable at American supermarkets, so I doctor up sausages such as Aidells’ mango, which are mildly sweet with tropical over- tones; plus, they're fully cooked and easy to thinly slice. Garlicky stir-fried jicama, fluffy egg strips, and lettuce add complexity. The sauce is enjoyed both in the roll and on the side for dipping, resulting in a great one-two punch of flavor. / In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, tahini, sriracha, and hoisin sauce. Taste and add enough of the water to create a salty- sweet-hot balance. Set the sauce aside. In another small bowl, beat the eggs with '/s teaspoon salt. Set a small nonstick skillet over medium heat and swirl in 2 tea- spoons of the oil. When hot, pour in the eggs and use a spatula to pull and push the edges toward the middle, allowing excess egg to flow out and set on the skillet. When mostly set, about 1 min- ute, turn the egg over. Cook for 15 to 20 seconds longer, until fully set and done, then transfer to a plate. When cooled enough to handle, cut the egg into quarters and then cut each quarter into Y2-inch-wide strips. Set aside. In a large skillet over medium heat, combine 2 tablespoons oil and the garlic. Let sizzle for 2 minutes, until light blond, then transfer to a large bowl. Turn the heat to high, add the jicama and carrot (if using) to the skillet, sprinkle in % teaspoon salt, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring, until crisp-tender. Add to the fried garlic and stir to combine. Set aside to cool. / CONTINUED JICAMA AND SAUSAGE RICE PAPER ROLLS / CONTINUED Reheat the skillet over medium-high and add the remaining 1 tea- spoon oil and the sausage. Add the maple syrup and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes to caramelize the sugar and brown the sausage a bit. Remove from the heat, sprinkle in the five-spice powder, and stir to combine. Transfer to a plate and let cool. Set up a rice paper-rolling station with the sauce, jicama, sausage, egg, lettuce, and rice papers. Nearby, have a large deep skillet or wide shallow bowl filled with 1 to 2 inches of very warm water. For each roll, slide a rice paper round in the warm water for a few sec- onds to wet both sides, then place on a cutting board or dinner plate. When the rice paper is pliable, about 1 minute, smear 1'/2 teaspoons sauce in the center of the lower third, painting an area about 4 inches by linch. Layer in 3 tablespoons lettuce, 2 to 3 tablespoons jicama, 1 or 2 egg strips, and 2 slices sausage. Bring up the bottom edge to cover the filling and roll twice. Fold in the sides and finish rolling to seal. (To replicate the photo opposite, don’t place the sausage atop the egg; roll the rice paper up once, then tuck in the sausage before finishing.) Present the rolls, whole or halved, with the remaining sauce for spooning into the rolls. NOTES / To peel jicama, use a knife to slice off a bit of the ends to keep the tuber steady on your cutting board as you saw off its tan, tough skin. Cut the naked jicama into matchsticks by hand, or slice it in a processor (or with a box grater) before stacking and cutting into matchsticks. The sauce, egg, sausage, and jicama can be cooked up to 2 days ahead. Refrigerate each one separately and return to room temperature before using. For herbaceous notes, add a handful of coarsely chopped fresh mint or basil (Thai or opal are great) to the lettuce. To make vegetarian rolls, swap in Sriracha Tofu (page 150) or its char siu variation for the sausage. 64 VIETNAMESE FOOD any day 68 70 fal 19 ae 79 82 84 87 89 GINGERY GREENS AND shrimp soup VERSATILE VEGETABLE soup SUPER-SIMPLE overnight rice porridge TANGY SEAFOOD stew VELVETY CORN AND coconut soup WONTONS IN gingery broth CHICKEN AND glass noodle soup SMOKED TURKEY pho ROAST CHICKEN NOODLE soup SPICY HUE NOODLE soup 3 Slurp up these soupy ideas, which start out with everyday quickies, progress to simmered specials, and finish with comforting noodles in broth. Their built-in versatility enables you to take them in many Viet-ish directions. soups GINGERY GREENS AND Shrimp soup SERVES 4 TAKES 35 MINUTES 1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil Ye medium yellow or red onion, thinly sliced 52 cups water Fine sea salt 1 tablespoon fish sauce, plus more as needed One 8-ounce bunch mustard greens, coarsely chopped, including tender stems 12 large shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cut crosswise into thumbnail- width chunks, or split horizontally into symmetrical halves 12 teaspoons finely chopped peeled ginger Recently ground black pepper (optional) NOTES / Part of Vietnamese everyday meals, fragrant, wholesome, and fast soups like this one are called canh. Surprisingly, they're typically made with water and rely on gently sautéed onion, salt, and fish sauce for foundational depth. What often defines canh is a ton of leafy greens, cooked in the pot to contribute their flavor and nutrients. A little protein is dropped in for savory flair. At the Viet table, canh is not just a first course—you can help yourself to it throughout a meal to refresh your palate. This nimble soup plays well with other dishes, but you can make a light meal of it too. Just add warm bread and butter. Vf In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over medium heat, warm the canola oil. When the oil is barely shimmering, add the onion and cook for about 4 minutes, stirring, until soft and sweetly fragrant. Add the water, Ye teaspoon salt, and fish sauce, then turn the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat to maintain a vigorous boil for 3 to 5 minutes to develop flavor. Add the greens, stirring them for even cooking. When the greens are very soft and cooked through, about 5 minutes, add the shrimp and ginger. When the shrimp are opaque and cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes, remove from the heat and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes, uncovered. Taste and add additional salt or fish sauce, if needed. Serve the soup in a communal bowl or ladle into individual serv

BANH MI SANDWICH JICAMA AND SAUSAGE rice paper rolls C Bake, scoop, wrap, and roll your way to a wide variety of thrilling Vietnamese snacks and small bites. Don't overlook the bonus riffs and ideas in the recipe Notes. snacks CHILE GARLIC chicken wings SERVES 6TO8 TAKES 1 HOUR Canola spray oil 2 pounds chicken drumettes and flats (“party wings"; 16 to 20 pieces) Ye cup all-purpose flour or rice flour (white or brown, such as Bob's Red Mill) Ye teaspoon fine sea salt Ye teaspoon recently ground black pepper 1 tablespoon paprika 1 tablespoon sugar 1% tablespoons fish sauce 2 to 3 tablespoons chile garlic sauce (see page 31; use the maximum if homemade) Yq cup light corn syrup or brown rice syrup (such as Lundberg) 1 Persian or % English cucumber, thickly sliced (optional) 1 lime, cut into wedges (optional) 47 SNACKS Nibbling on chicken wings with an ice-cold beer is a great way to nosh Vietnamese style, but I don’t get out the fryer to make the wings. Instead, I coat them in flour, spices, and oil and roast them. Remarkably, they crisp up as if you’d deep-fried them. Rice flour yields slightly crisper results than wheat flour, but it’s a marginal difference so use what you like. If you don’t have cooking spray or a hand-pump oil mister, oil the foil and then tumble the flour- coated wings in 2 to 3 tablespoons of neutral oil before roasting. For a party, roast the wings in advance, cover loosely, and keep at a cool room temperature for up to 2 hours. When you're ready to serve, reheat in a 350°F oven for 6 minutes, until hot, and then toss with the sauce. Sauced wings keep their texture well for about 1 hour. 7: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and coat with cooking spray. Pat the wings dry with paper towels. In a large bowl, combine the flour, salt, pepper, and paprika. Add all the chicken and toss, using your hands to ensure a thorough coating. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Spray the chicken on both sides with oil, then spread out the wings on the pan for even cooking. Roast the wings for 45 minutes, turning after 30 minutes, or when they hiss and are browned on the underside. The magic happens in the last 15 minutes, when they become richly browned and crispy. While the wings roast, in a small saucepan over medium heat, com- bine the sugar, fish sauce, chile garlic sauce, and corn syrup and bring to a boil. Let bubble vigorously for 45 to 60 seconds, until thick (look for biggish bubbles on the surface). Set aside to cool for a few minutes, then transfer to a large bowl to finish cooling and thickening, about 15 minutes. When the wings are done, let them rest for about 5 minutes, then toss in the sauce and transfer to a platter. Serve the wings with the cucumber slices on the side, if desired, for a cooling crunch. Have diners add a squeeze of lime juice for bright contrast, if they like. ROASTED CAULIFLOWER Wings SERVES 4TO6 TAKES 1 HOUR 1 to 1% pounds cauliflower florets 5% ounces white or brown rice flour (such as Bob's Red Mill) 1 teaspoon fine sea salt Y, to Y2 teaspoon recently ground black pepper (use the maximum for a lick of heat) 1% teaspoons paprika Brimming % cup water 2% tablespoons canola or other neutral oil 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon Bragg Liquid Aminos, Maggi Seasoning sauce, or soy sauce 3 tablespoons chile garlic sauce (see page 31) Ya cup light corn syrup or brown rice syrup (Such as Lundberg) 48 If it’s Meatless Monday and I want wings, I coat snack-size cauli- flower florets in batter and bake them until crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. As shown on page 46, serving the sauce on the side preserves the just-baked texture well. The batter is a bit tricky, so weigh the flour for an exact measurement. ia Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parch- ment paper and coat with neutral oil or cooking spray. Pat the cauliflower florets dry with paper towels and, if needed, cut into pieces no larger than 2 inches at their widest point. Set aside. Ina large bowl, combine the rice flour, salt, pepper, and paprika. Whisk in the water to hydrate, then add the canola oil; aim for a thick consistency (imagine very soft frosting) that will stick on the cauliflower and bake into a shell-like coating. (If the batter is too thick, whisk in more water, 1 teaspoon at a time; brown rice flour will need an additional 2 to 3 teaspoons.) An overly pasty batter bakes up extra crunchy, but that’s not a bad thing. Add the cauliflower to the batter, using a spatula to coat nearly all exposed surfaces of the florets (a few bare spots are great for ventilation and help to create a crisp finish). Stir and fold the ingre- dients, turning and shaking the bowl, if it helps. Spread out the florets on the prepared pan, cut-side down, with none touching. Roast the cauliflower for 30 minutes, until the tops feel dry-ish and hard and the bottoms have browned here and there. Turn the florets and roast 12 to 15 minutes longer to crisp the other side. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, stir together the sugar, Bragg Liquid Aminos, chile garlic sauce, and corn syrup. Bring to a brisk simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and, after the bubbling action subsides, pour into a small, heatproof bowl. Let cool and thicken for 20 minutes while the cauliflower roasts. When the cauliflower is done, let cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve with the sauce for dipping. Baked florets will remain crisp for 2 hours and can be reheated in a 350°F oven for 5 to 6 minutes, until warm. VIETNAMESE FOOD any day SPICY CLAM AND herb scoops SERVES 4 TAKES 25 MINUTES One 10-cunce can, or two 6%e-ounce cans baby clams or chopped clams 2 teaspoons fish sauce, plus more as needed 1% tablespoons canola or other neutral oil 3 large white mushrooms, stems included, chopped into pea-size pieces 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh lemongrass, or 1% tablespoon grated fresh lemongrass (from 1 medium stalk) Scant % teaspoon paprika Ye teaspoon cayenne pepper Ye teaspoon recently ground black or white pepper ’/4 cup thinly sliced green onions, white and green parts VY, cup unsalted roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped Ye cup lightly packed coarsely chopped fresh cilantro or mint 1 lime, cut into wedges Sesame or plain rice crackers or tortilla chips for serving 49 SNACKS When Vietnamese people eat crackers or chips, they often use them like utensils to scoop up crazy-delicious mixtures like this one, called hén xdo xtic banh da in Hue, where it’s a favorite. Cooks in Vietnam use mild-tasting tiny fresh clams, and break up large rice crackers into shards for scooping. To replicate the dish with ease, I use canned clams (such as Bar Harbor and Crown Prince) and store-bought lightly salted crackers or chips. Chopped mushrooms make the clams go farther, while adding umami. Cilantro-like Vietnamese coriander (rau ram) is the go-to herb, but cilantro or mint work just fine at delivering the flavors of Vietnam. This fun snack is perfect with drinks. 7 Drain the clams, reserving 2 tablespoons of the liquid (save the rest for soup or another use). Season the clams with the fish sauce to add extra ocean flavor. Set aside. In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, warm 1' teaspoons of the canola oil, then add the mushrooms and clam liquid. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms have patches of golden brown. Lower the heat slightly and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the garlic, lemongrass, paprika, and cay- enne. Cook for about 1 minute, until fragrant, then add the clams. Cook the clams, stirring, for about 2 minutes, until just a little clam liquid remains. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the black pepper and green onions. Let cool a

ORANGE-RUM flan VIETNAMESE coftee 2 Whether youre in the mood for something cool, warm, fragrant, or elegant, these sweet treats have you covered. For a beverage pairing, make Vietnamese coffee. SWEETS and coftee * NO-CHURN VIETNAMESE COFFEE ice cream MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS TAKES 10 MINUTES, PLUS 5 TO 6 HOURS TO FREEZE 1’ to 2 teaspoons vanilla extract Brimming 2 tablespoons instant espresso Fine sea salt 1 cup heavy whipping cream Brimming % cup full-fat sweetened condensed milk Scant 1 tablespoon molasses NOTE / What can you make from sweetened condensed milk aside from Viet coffee drinks? Ice cream! I take a no-churn approach that involves whipping up the milk, heavy cream, and flavorings until fluffy and then freezing the mix for several hours. You don't need an ice-cream maker, just an electric handheld mixer. (An immer- sion blender does not add enough air.) Instant espresso, molasses, and vanilla create a strong Vietnamese coffee flavor; brewed coffee injects too much liquid into the mixture and compromises the texture. The sea salt’s edge amplifies things. If you like, gild the lily with chocolate bits (see the Note), but this ice cream is also sensational without it. Vi. In a medium bowl, combine 1’ teaspoons of the vanilla, the espresso, and 2 pinches salt and stir to mix well; it will seem slightly sludgy. Add the cream, condensed milk, and molasses. Taste and, if you want to boost the flavor a touch, add more vanilla, /% teaspoon at a time; the amount required depends on the vanilla and your palate. An extra pinch of salt sometimes helps too. With an electric handheld mixer fitted with two beaters or a whisk attachment, whip the mixture at high speed for about 3 minutes, until you get a firm, spreadable texture like fluffy whipped cream or frosting. Transfer to a 3- to 4-cup storage container, cover, and freeze until firm, 5 to 6 hours, or up to 2 weeks. Let the ice cream sit at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes to soften to a scoopable texture before serving. For coffee and chocolate ice cream, hand chop 1% ounces bittersweet or dark chocolate into very small bits so they will disperse well. After whipping up the ice-cream mixture, use a spatula to gently fold in the chocolate. Freeze as directed. Your yield will be a little more than the original recipe. 210 VIETNAMESE FOOD any day

Shaking Beef and Easy Soy Sauce-Glazed Zucchini. Both winners! I'll be adding these and many more of Andrea Nguyen’s Eien crafted recipes to my weeknight repertoire.” MOLLY STEVENS, author of All About Roasting and All About Braising VA “Andrea Nguyen is a masterful and irrepressible guide to Vietnam's cuisine and culture. Vietnamese Food Any Day delivers big, bold flavors translated for the American kitchen. It’s exotic simplicity at its best.” CHR!STOPHER KIMBALL, founder of Milk Street A Age mi Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2022 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation https://archive.org/details/viethnamesefoodan0000nguy VIETNAMESE FOOD any day VIETNAMESE FOOD } any day Simple recipes for true, fresh flavors _ g4 Photographs by Aubrie Pick

BAKED SHRIMP AND Celery toasts BANH MI SANDWICH JICAMA AND SAUSAGE rice paper rolls C Bake, scoop, wrap, and roll your way to a wide variety of thrilling Vietnamese snacks and small bites. Don't overlook the bonus riffs and ideas in the recipe Notes. snacks CHILE GARLIC chicken wings SERVES 6TO8 TAKES 1 HOUR Canola spray oil 2 pounds chicken drumettes and flats (“party wings"; 16 to 20 pieces) Ye cup all-purpose flour or rice flour (white or brown, such as Bob's Red Mill) Ye teaspoon fine sea salt Ye teaspoon recently ground black pepper 1 tablespoon paprika 1 tablespoon sugar 1% tablespoons fish sauce 2 to 3 tablespoons chile garlic sauce (see page 31; use the maximum if homemade) Yq cup light corn syrup or brown rice syrup (such as Lundberg) 1 Persian or % English cucumber, thickly sliced (optional) 1 lime, cut into wedges (optional) 47 SNACKS Nibbling on chicken wings with an ice-cold beer is a great way to nosh Vietnamese style, but I don’t get out the fryer to make the wings. Instead, I coat them in flour, spices, and oil and roast them. Remarkably, they crisp up as if you’d deep-fried them. Rice flour yields slightly crisper results than wheat flour, but it’s a marginal difference so use what you like. If you don’t have cooking spray or a hand-pump oil mister, oil the foil and then tumble the flour- coated wings in 2 to 3 tablespoons of neutral oil before roasting. For a party, roast the wings in advance, cover loosely, and keep at a cool room temperature for up to 2 hours. When you're ready to serve, reheat in a 350°F oven for 6 minutes, until hot, and then toss with the sauce. Sauced wings keep their texture well for about 1 hour. 7: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and coat with cooking spray. Pat the wings dry with paper towels. In a large bowl, combine the flour, salt, pepper, and paprika. Add all the chicken and toss, using your hands to ensure a thorough coating. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Spray the chicken on both sides with oil, then spread out the wings on the pan for even cooking. Roast the wings for 45 minutes, turning after 30 minutes, or when they hiss and are browned on the underside. The magic happens in the last 15 minutes, when they become richly browned and crispy. While the wings roast, in a small saucepan over medium heat, com- bine the sugar, fish sauce, chile garlic sauce, and corn syrup and bring to a boil. Let bubble vigorously for 45 to 60 seconds, until thick (look for biggish bubbles on the surface). Set aside to cool for a few minutes, then transfer to a large bowl to finish cooling and thickening, about 15 minutes. When the wings are done, let them rest for about 5 minutes, then toss in the sauce and transfer to a platter. Serve the wings with the cucumber slices on the side, if desired, for a cooling crunch. Have diners add a squeeze of lime juice for bright contrast, if they like. ROASTED CAULIFLOWER Wings SERVES 4TO6 TAKES 1 HOUR 1 to 1% pounds cauliflower florets 5% ounces white or brown rice flour (such as Bob's Red Mill) 1 teaspoon fine sea salt Y, to Y2 teaspoon recently ground black pepper (use the maximum for a lick of heat) 1% teaspoons paprika Brimming % cup water 2% tablespoons canola or other neutral oil 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon Bragg Liquid Aminos, Maggi Seasoning sauce, or soy sauce 3 tablespoons chile garlic sauce (see page 31) Ya cup light corn syrup or brown rice syrup (Such as Lundberg) 48 If it’s Meatless Monday and I want wings, I coat snack-size cauli- flower florets in batter and bake them until crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. As shown on page 46, serving the sauce on the side preserves the just-baked texture well. The batter is a bit tricky, so weigh the flour for an exact measurement. ia Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parch- ment paper and coat with neutral oil or cooking spray. Pat the cauliflower florets dry with paper towels and, if needed, cut into pieces no larger than 2 inches at their widest point. Set aside. Ina large bowl, combine the rice flour, salt, pepper, and paprika. Whisk in the water to hydrate, then add the canola oil; aim for a thick consistency (imagine very soft frosting) that will stick on the cauliflower and bake into a shell-like coating. (If the batter is too thick, whisk in more water, 1 teaspoon at a time; brown rice flour will need an additional 2 to 3 teaspoons.) An overly pasty batter bakes up extra crunchy, but that’s not a bad thing. Add the cauliflower to the batter, using a spatula to coat nearly all exposed surfaces of the florets (a few bare spots are great for ventilation and help to create a crisp finish). Stir and fold the ingre- dients, turning and shaking the bowl, if it helps. Spread out the florets on the prepared pan, cut-side down, with none touching. Roast the cauliflower for 30 minutes, until the tops feel dry-ish and hard and the bottoms have browned here and there. Turn the florets and roast 12 to 15 minutes longer to crisp the other side. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, stir together the sugar, Bragg Liquid Aminos, chile garlic sauce, and corn syrup. Bring to a brisk simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and, after the bubbling action subsides, pour into a small, heatproof bowl. Let cool and thicken for 20 minutes while the cauliflower roasts. When the cauliflower is done, let cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve with the sauce for dipping. Baked florets will remain crisp for 2 hours and can be reheated in a 350°F oven for 5 to 6 minutes, until warm. VIETNAMESE FOOD any day SPICY CLAM AND herb scoops SERVES 4 TAKES 25 MINUTES One 10-cunce can, or two 6%e-ounce cans baby clams or chopped clams 2 teaspoons fish sauce, plus more as needed 1% tablespoons canola or other neutral oil 3 large white mushrooms, stems included, chopped into pea-size pieces 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh lemongrass, or 1% tablespoon grated fresh lemongrass (from 1 medium stalk) Scant % teaspoon paprika Ye teaspoon cayenne pepper Ye teaspoon recently ground black or white pepper ’/4 cup thinly sliced green onions, white and green parts VY, cup unsalted roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped Ye cup lightly packed coarsely chopped fresh cilantro or mint 1 lime, cut into wedges Sesame or plain rice crackers or tortilla chips for serving 49 SNACKS When Vietnamese people eat crackers or chips, they often use them like utensils to scoop up crazy-delicious mixtures like this one, called hén xdo xtic banh da in Hue, where it’s a favorite. Cooks in Vietnam use mild-tasting tiny fresh clams, and break up large rice crackers into shards for scooping. To replicate the dish with ease, I use canned clams (such as Bar Harbor and Crown Prince) and store-bought lightly salted crackers or chips. Chopped mushrooms make the clams go farther, while adding umami. Cilantro-like Vietnamese coriander (rau ram) is the go-to herb, but cilantro or mint work just fine at delivering the flavors of Vietnam. This fun snack is perfect with drinks. 7 Drain the clams, reserving 2 tablespoons of the liquid (save the rest for soup or another use). Season the clams with the fish sauce to add extra ocean flavor. Set aside. In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, warm 1' teaspoons of the canola oil, then add the mushrooms and clam liquid. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms have patches of golden brown. Lower the heat slightly and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the garlic, lemongrass, paprika, and cay- enne. Cook for about 1 minute, until fragrant, then add the clams. Cook the clams, stirring, for about 2 minutes, until just a little clam liquid remains. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the black pepp

CHICKEN AND glass noodle soup SMOKED TURKEY pho ROAST CHICKEN NOODLE soup SPICY HUE NOODLE soup 3 Slurp up these soupy ideas, which start out with everyday quickies, progress to simmered specials, and finish with comforting noodles in broth. Their built-in versatility enables you to take them in many Viet-ish directions. soups GINGERY GREENS AND Shrimp soup SERVES 4 TAKES 35 MINUTES 1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil Ye medium yellow or red onion, thinly sliced 52 cups water Fine sea salt 1 tablespoon fish sauce, plus more as needed One 8-ounce bunch mustard greens, coarsely chopped, including tender stems 12 large shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cut crosswise into thumbnail- width chunks, or split horizontally into symmetrical halves 12 teaspoons finely chopped peeled ginger Recently ground black pepper (optional) NOTES / Part of Vietnamese everyday meals, fragrant, wholesome, and fast soups like this one are called canh. Surprisingly, they're typically made with water and rely on gently sautéed onion, salt, and fish sauce for foundational depth. What often defines canh is a ton of leafy greens, cooked in the pot to contribute their flavor and nutrients. A little protein is dropped in for savory flair. At the Viet table, canh is not just a first course—you can help yourself to it throughout a meal to refresh your palate. This nimble soup plays well with other dishes, but you can make a light meal of it too. Just add warm bread and butter. Vf In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over medium heat, warm the canola oil. When the oil is barely shimmering, add the onion and cook for about 4 minutes, stirring, until soft and sweetly fragrant. Add the water, Ye teaspoon salt, and fish sauce, then turn the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat to maintain a vigorous boil for 3 to 5 minutes to develop flavor. Add the greens, stirring them for even cooking. When the greens are very soft and cooked through, about 5 minutes, add the shrimp and ginger. When the shrimp are opaque and cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes, remove from the heat and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes, uncovered. Taste and add additional salt or fish sauce, if needed. Serve the soup in a communal bowl or ladle into individual serving bowls. Sprinkle with pepper for a final spicy burst, if you like. Instead of mustard greens, use another bold-flavored leaf, such as turnip greens or the radish tops left over from making pickles (see page 29). Opt for spinach for a milder taste, or combine complementary greens, like kale and mustard. As pictured, corkscrew-shaped shrimp result from halving them horizontally. Not fond of shrimp, or maybe it's too expensive? Use a 6-ounce fish fillet, such as tilapia or rockfish. Cut the fillet into bite-size pieces to add to the soup. 68 VIETNAMESE FOOD any day VERSATILE VEGETABLE SOUp SERVES 4 TAKES 40 MINUTES 1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil Ye medium yellow or red onion, thinly sliced 1% teaspoons finely chopped peeled ginger 1 medium carrot, or 1 small sweet potato, cut into thumbnail-size chunks 1 large celery stalk, sliced 2%e cups bean sprouts or ribbons of pinkie-length napa or green cabbage leaves 4 ounces fresh shiitake or white mushrooms, stems included, thickly sliced Fine sea salt 1 teaspoon fish sauce, or 1Ye teaspoons soy sauce, Bragg Liquid Aminos, or Maggi Seasoning sauce, plus more as needed 4’ cups water 2 handfuls chopped kale or spinach 1 thinly sliced green onion, white part only, or 1 garlic clove, minced Ya cup coarsely chopped fresh herbs, such as cilantro, dill, or basil, or any combination Recently ground black pepper, chile garlic sauce (see page 31), or sambal oelek for garnish 70 When I'm lazy and want to eat light, I make this vegetable-laden soup. I serve it with rice, a quick protein—which may or may not involve meat—and if available, pickled daikon and carrot (see page 29). Vegetables are the stars here, so there’s no need to prepare a separate vegetable side dish. The soup looks like a Western-style soup, but I apply my Vietnamese canh (quick soup) blueprint: Cook the aromatics, add water and seasonings, and simmer with the main ingredients to make a multi- dimensional broth. Lots of greens and herbs added at the end inject bright, fresh flavor. The flavors concentrate and develop during the final resting period, so be patient before serving. Whole leaves of baby kale, spinach, and/or chard can stand in for the chopped leafy greens. i, In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over medium heat, warm the canola oil. When the oil is barely shimmering, add the onion and ginger and cook, stirring frequently, for about 4 minutes, until the onion softens. Add the carrot, celery, bean sprouts, and mushrooms; toss in °/ tea- spoon salt and the fish sauce; and cook, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes to develop flavor and warm up. Pour in the water, partially cover, and turn the heat to high. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and cook, uncovered, at a vigorous simmer for 15 minutes. Increase the heat to return to a boil, and add the kale. When just cooked through, about 1 minute, turn off the heat and stir in the green onion. Let the soup rest, uncovered, for 5 minutes, then taste and, if needed, add more salt or fish sauce. (Splash in water if you've gone too far or if the soup isn't brothy enough for you.) Ladle the soup into individual bowls and divide the herbs among them. Sprinkle on some pepper or plop ina little chile sauce for lively heat, and serve. VIETNAMESE FooD any day SUPER-SIMPLE overnight rice porridge SERVES 4 TAKES 30 MINUTES,

Green Mango, Cabbage, and Jicama Salad (page 163) with a potato salad for a summertime meal. A handful of recipes are one-dish wonders, such as Grilled Trout Rice Paper Rolls (page 119) and a Rice Noodle Salad Bowl (page 197), that may play the starring role of a fun brunch, lunch, or dinner. The savory snacks can plug into a nosh session or cocktail party. And the sweets are great for an afternoon tea break or post- dinner treat. This collection of recipes is built for versatility and creativity. When cook- ing and eating in our American home, my family often enjoys cross-cultural menus. You should too. How to use recipes like a pro Using a recipe well does not require following it slavishly but rather thought- fully interpreting it for your situation. A recipe is like a roadmap filled with signposts to guide you on a culinary journey. You may make a wrong turn or elect to take a detour, but you'll arrive at your destination and create your own personal path along the way—if you keep a few things in mind. To turn my recipes into yours: ¢ Organize your work for the greatest efficiency. The list of ingredi- ents in any recipe is presented in the order in which the ingredients are used, which isn’t necessarily the most logical order of prep. For example, identify and do advance prep work, such as making stocks or sauces, boiling noodles, and washing lettuce and herbs. If you use one cutting board for all your chopping, prep the vegetables before the raw proteins to minimize mess and cross-contamination. Ingredients that will be thrown into the pan together may be kept in the same bowl. Why dirty up extra dishes? ¢ Measure your ingredients with care. Use volume and liquid measuring cups as needed and use a scale (best when baking) because it never lies. ¢ Know your burners. All the recipes in this book were developed and tested by me, and then cross-tested by an intrepid team of volunteers. We cook on home kitchen stoves. If the range was gas, the burners were between 9,000 and 12,000 BTUs. If you're cooking on burners with even more power, your cooking time may be faster than the time suggested in the recipe. Use the visual and tactile cues to guide your progress, and lower the heat as needed. * Have everything ready when fast-cooking (think stir-frying) is involved. Line up the prepped ingredients by the stove, and keep needed equipment at hand so you can flow through the motions. * The first time through, follow the recipe to understand the parameters and benchmarks. When you've adjusted it to your liking, jot down your changes. 8 VIETNAMESE FooD any day Essential equipment To make food from this book, you don’t have to outfit your kitchen with unusual gadgets. You'll employ tools and appliances such as a digital scale, food processor (small and regular size), blender, pressure cooker, and microwave oven. Along with the saucepans and skillets in the following chart, a cast-iron stove-top grill pan will also be useful, and a few recipes have you grilling outdoors. In other words, you'll be using ordinary kitchen equipment for extraordinary food.

CHURN VIETNAMESE COFFEE ice cream SILKEN TOFU AND MANDARIN ORANGES IN ginger syrup MATCHA “PANDAN” waffles BANANA-COCONUT bread-pudding cake CASHEW SESAME brittle SILKY ORANGE-RUM flan VIETNAMESE coftee 2 Whether youre in the mood for something cool, warm, fragrant, or elegant, these sweet treats have you covered. For a beverage pairing, make Vietnamese coffee. SWEETS and coftee * NO-CHURN VIETNAMESE COFFEE ice cream MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS TAKES 10 MINUTES, PLUS 5 TO 6 HOURS TO FREEZE 1’ to 2 teaspoons vanilla extract Brimming 2 tablespoons instant espresso Fine sea salt 1 cup heavy whipping cream Brimming % cup full-fat sweetened condensed milk Scant 1 tablespoon molasses NOTE / What can you make from sweetened condensed milk aside from Viet coffee drinks? Ice cream! I take a no-churn approach that involves whipping up the milk, heavy cream, and flavorings until fluffy and then freezing the mix for several hours. You don't need an ice-cream maker, just an electric handheld mixer. (An immer- sion blender does not add enough air.) Instant espresso, molasses, and vanilla create a strong Vietnamese coffee flavor; brewed coffee injects too much liquid into the mixture and compromises the texture. The sea salt’s edge amplifies things. If you like, gild the lily with chocolate bits (see the Note), but this ice cream is also sensational without it. Vi. In a medium bowl, combine 1’ teaspoons of the vanilla, the espresso, and 2 pinches salt and stir to mix well; it will seem slightly sludgy. Add the cream, condensed milk, and molasses. Taste and, if you want to boost the flavor a touch, add more vanilla, /% teaspoon at a time; the amount required depends on the vanilla and your palate. An extra pinch of salt sometimes helps too. With an electric handheld mixer fitted with two beaters or a whisk attachment, whip the mixture at high speed for about 3 minutes, until you get a firm, spreadable texture like fluffy whipped cream or frosting. Transfer to a 3- to 4-cup storage container, cover, and freeze until firm, 5 to 6 hours, or up to 2 weeks. Let the ice cream sit at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes to soften to a scoopable texture before serving. For coffee and chocolate ice cream, hand chop 1% ounces bittersweet or dark chocolate into very small bits so they will disperse well. After whipping up the ice-cream mixture, use a spatula to gently fold in the chocolate. Freeze as directed. Your yield will be a little more than the original recipe. 210 VIETNAMESE FOOD any day